We were sad to see Brasserie Max & Julie leave the local dining scene – especially as news of its shuttering came so soon after Au Petit Paris let the world know that it, too, was going out of business. Two cozy, independently owned French favorites gone, just like that.

So, we were chuffed to learn that Cafe Azur had taken over the Max & Julie location on Montrose near Richmond. At first, press releases made it sound like Chris Paul, the owner of Max & Julie, was going to be involved in the new venture, too. But when we dropped in at Cafe Azur for a media lunch several days ago, it turned out that he was no longer involved.

French chef/owner Sidney Degaine and his wife/operating partner Maria, settled on Houston after leaving Brazil. This is the their fourth restaurant, but their first in this country. The couple came to the US, determined to open a restaurant in either Florida or Texas. Florida looked too much like Brasil, Degaine told the guests who had turned out for the tasting lunch. And the couple did not like the traffic in Austin. They decided that Houston was just right – it’s not only a dining city, but a city full of culture. And, coincidentally, Nice (where Degaine is from) is Houston’s sister city.

Cafe Azur has been whitewashed inside; accents are touched with hues from the sea. The wood floors have been lightened. Simple white tablecloths cover the tables that are sided by bentwood chairs. Out front, fun artificial turf and fairy lights makes dining feel like a picnic.

The menu has, as you expect, a strong South-of-France accent, along with some Italian influences. Menu highlights include seared foie gras with crispy duck confit and cherry sauce ($25), branzino carpaccio with blood orange and lemon ($17), lobster ravioli ($34), bouillabaisse ($35), steak tartare with frites ($29) and whole roasted branzino with croûte de sel (baked in salt crust) for two ($36).

Among the dishes we sampled were tender roasted octopus ($16, photo above), seared scallops with cauliflower puree and braised pork belly ($36) and a “perfect egg” ($12, photo below) that is cooked 45 minutes at 65 degrees Centigrade and served with potato foam and chanterelles. (Sounds pretentious, right? It’s stunningly delicious.)

Most of the desserts are the fancy French kind, but we suggest you order the ice cream made tableside using liquid nitrogen. It’s a fun little show.

The restaurant has an intensive list of rose wines and makes its own limoncello to serve and mix into cocktails.

“I can’t bring the Mediterranean to Houston, but I can bring the food,” says Degaine.

Cafe Azur, 4315 Montrose near Richmond, 713-524-0070, cafeazurhouston.com
Currently open for dinner only; brunch coming soon.