I had the pleasure of interviewing chef Frederick Perrier, owner/chef of Aura, about a month ago for the current issue of My Table magazine (“Plain and Francey”). I was so impressed by the hospitality of the staff and the high-quality meal we treated ourselves to afterward that I was determined to come back for more.

Perrier used to run Cafe Perrier inside The Loop on Mid Lane. However, he and his family live in Missouri City. At some point, the long, tired drives late at night got to be too much. He opened Aura to be closer to home and, with that, brought a true French restaurant to the Southwest outskirts of the city.

Aura is casually graceful without being too quaint or precious. It’s divided into an entrance/bar area and the long, more formal white dining room. The highlight of the décor is a beautiful collection of glass bowls mounted to a wall.

The only downside of the formal dining room is the lack of noise control. On the night we visited, there was a rather raucous birthday dinner going on. So, don’t count on a quiet dinner. It’s what you’ll likely get, but there are no guarantees.

The chef’s tasting dinner is one of the best fine-dining values in Houston and well worth braving a few loudmouths. Fifty dollars plus tax and tip takes you on a five-course ramble through French cuisine. You’ll have no problem finding something great on the very reasonable wine list to wash it down with. I landed a $30 Côtes du Rhône that made me very happy.

Our starter was composed of wide strips of smoked salmon decoratively layered on top of a round of guacamole. This was not a Tex-Mex concoction, though. It was quintessentially French, flavored with finely shaved fennel and fresh, bright tomato. The crisp breads from our basket were a welcome accompaniment.

Next was a perfectly seared scallop on top of the classic French salad, céleri rémoulade. I mistook it for a slaw at first, but fortunately I was dining with my friend Cathi, who is a veteran of French dining and was able to guide me in the correct direction on this dish. The crisp and creamy bed of fresh celeriac perfectly offset the meaty scallop.

My only specific request was for escargot. The snails arrived on top of a bed of risotto. Well, it was called risotto, but the long-grained rice just didn’t quite satisfy. It simply cannot provide the creaminess essential to the dish like short-grained rice (such as Arborio) can.

The escargot, though, were large and meaty. It was so refreshing to have them arrive not drowned in butter and garlic, as seems to be the default preparation locally.

The main course of lamb, Kobe beef, asparagus and green beans may have had delectable meats as the highlight, but to me, it demonstrated the simple joy of perfectly cooked vegetables. So few restaurants do justice to vegetables that it’s a wonder when they come out just right: not too crisp and not too soft.

It’s always a sign of a great dinner when everyone at the table orders dessert. Along with coffee and cappuccinos, we treated ourselves to crêpes, crème brûlée (which came with a touch of humor in the form of a molded chocolate “barrel of monkeys” shape) and a delicate apple tart. There were no losers in the trio; everything sang. Classic desserts stick around for a reason: When they are done well, they are utterly satisfying.

I suppose if I had to pick a favorite, I would have to choose the thin apple tart. Again, it’s the concept of the beautiful simplicity of using a fresh ingredient properly. The nearly diaphanous apple slices were fresh and crisp, needing nothing more than a quick bake in the oven to bring a bit of caramelized sweetness to the foreground. A scoop of vanilla ice cream set off the whole thing perfectly.

Aura is the rare kind of restaurant where you can have as formal an experience as you want, or not. You can bring a date or you can bring the family. You can come for soup and salad, or create a three-course French meal. I do recommend you splurge on the tasting, though. Turning chef Perrier loose in the kitchen will bring you surprising delights – perhaps even a chocolate monkey.

AURA, 3340 FM 1092 bet. Cartwright & Hwy. 6, Missouri City, 281-403-2872, aura-restaurant.com