“Oh, man, this is a health food restaurant?” exclaimed my guest in mock dismay upon opening her menu at a recent lunch at Seasons 52, the new spot in the still-under-construction Millennium High Street development on Westheimer just inside the West Loop.

Well, no, not exactly “health food.” There are no tofu shakes or grim veggie curries over brown rice. Florida-based Seasons 52 is an upscale restaurant with an eye on the caloric bottom line, but offering classic American cuisine in a richly appointed grill and wine bar. Think Capital Grille or Eddie V’s, two of their sibling chains in the Darden group.

The Seasons 52 setting is rich, with lots of cozy booths, wood trim, a wine cellar and art on the walls. There’s a long wrap-around piano bar, chef’s table and a private dining room. The place is sexy and, in my view, more of an adult restaurant than a family restaurant.

But let’s talk food: The shtick here is that every dish on the menu comes in at 475 calories or less. But, honestly, there is no sense of deprivation. One of the best things on the menu are the flatbreads, which are each about 16 inches long and topped with combinations like grilled steak, cremini mushroom, spinach and blue cheese. Eat it all yourself as lunch, or share with friends as a starter.

Carnivores will enjoy the wood-roasted pork tenderloin, grilled lamb T-bone chops and the filet mignon, each entrée served with vegetables, potatoes or risotto. How do they manage the 475-calorie count? By using wood grilling and roasting (rather than sautéing in oil or butter), serving slightly smaller portion sizes and lightening up the sauces.

The name of the restaurant, of course, plays on 52 weeks a year, and one side of the menu changes every week. A weekly special might include Florida crab claws or Copper River salmon. And, because this is a healthful food restaurant (note I didn’t say health food restaurant), there are also a whole slate of special menus available, including gluten-free, lactose-free, vegan, etc.

The wine list, which includes more than 52 options by the glass, is by Master Sommelier George Miliotes, who happened to attend the media dinner where I first test-drove the menu a couple weeks ago. The wine list includes some organic wines as well as an ever-changing list of “Drink Them Before They’re Famous.”

I thought Miliotes’ food/wine pairings were brilliant. They included a field greens salad with grilled golden beets and sundried cherries dressed with cumin lime vinaigrette with King Estate Pinot Gris (it’s always tricky to pair salad with wine) and cedar-plank roasted salmon with Mer Soleil Chardonnay.

Finally, the desserts have a novel presentation. Each dessert (e.g. pecan pie, strawberry shortcake, blueberry cheesecake) is served in a tall shot glass, and a metal carrier with about 10 of these shot glasses is brought to your table for your contemplation. Choose one, or choose more. Such a smart size for a little postprandial sweet thing when you just want a taste and not a slab of dessert.

Seasons 52 is open for lunch and dinner every day. When you go, say hello to GM Reuben Rolf. You’ll recognize him from The Palm.

By the way, Seasons 52 has already announced they are planning to open a second Houston location in CityCentre Three at 842 W. Sam Houston Parkway. We’ve also been told that a second Capital Grille will be moving into the same development.

Seasons 52, 4410 Westheimer bet. Mid Lane & Loop 610, 713-621-5452 seasons52.com