Nundini Italian Imports has been one of Houston’s best-kept secrets since 1985. For more than a quarter century, it’s been an import warehouse supplying restaurants with Italian olive oils, pasta, canned tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, breadsticks, truffles and the like. About 10 years ago, Nundini added a “deli and food store” so that savvy retail customers would also have access to the company’s products. The little deli operation serves sandwiches during lunch time, and all the while they’ve also been quietly churning out some of the city’s best gelato.

This summer Nundini added Nundini Chef’s Table – Italian Kitchen & Wine Bar, taking in a part of their 17,000-square-foot warehouse and turning it into a full-service dining room. Serving everything from paninis to pastas, seafood and filet mignon, it’s a large menu with an emphasis on daily specials. Prices are very affordable, due to the company’s import prowess. There is a wine cellar feel to the place with displayed bottles from all over Italy. You can buy a bottle of wine on the shop side and, for a $6.50 corkage fee, drink it with your lunch or dinner.

On our early visit, it seems like Nundini can’t quite decide if they want to be a casual or fine dining establishment – they were still debating the use of white tablecloths – and seem to have arrived at “casual with a fine dining touch.”

There are appetizers you’d expect, such as bruschetta, antipasti and a pasta e fagioli soup with a rich broth, tender cannellini beans and al dente tubetti pasta. The Greek salad (above) was loaded with large chunks of feta and a fresh lemony vinaigrette; there was plenty to share for just $7.95. The cheese plate is straightforward with detailed descriptions. You choose one from each of three categories: goat, cow’s milk and pecorino for $13.25.

On a visit last week I enjoyed a daily special of fettuccine with a sage cream, sausage and peas. The sausage was sweet and tender, the sauce neither too thick nor cloying. It cost $11.25.

I’m typically underwhelmed by pizza in Houston, but with the addition of a wood-burning stone oven during the renovation Nundini is throwing down some righteous pizza with a flavorful crust, tangy tomato sauce and not too much cheese. Could the crust be crisper? Yes. And I’m sure it could be ordered that way. I can’t help but be excited by the potential.

Chef Andrea Gaspercic traveled here from Italy three years ago and promises “Italian food by Italians with real Italian imports,” touting the fact that there will always be an Italian chef at the helm. He looks forward to expanding the menu with daily specials. Early service is a little awkward, as everyone seems to be learning, but I’m definitely intrigued. I have always enjoyed shopping here, so I don’t see a down side to the evolution of Nundini. It’s worth checking out.

NUNDINI CHEF’S TABLE, 500 Shepherd just north of I-10, 713-861-6331, nundini.com