A Fresh Neighborhood Bakery

Foody’s Gourmet is the long-awaited bakery located next to Le Mistral (1400 Eldridge) and operated by the Denis brothers, David and Sylvain. It’s part of the sprawling complex that is now Le Mistral, just across the parking lot from the original and much smaller Le Mistral. If you haven’t been in the Energy Coridoor in the last several years, I’ll bring you up to speed: It’s hot. And not just for oil and gas professionals. The district is clearly attracting folks who wish to be minutes from the 610 Loop … but not too close.

In theory, the little coffeeshop/bakery should do very well in this area, considering the esteem that local gourmands accord chef David Denis. The bakery’s core business is baking custom breads for restaurants all over town, with the storefront as an adjunct business. When I stopped in around 9 am on a recent weekday, however, the parking lot was completely empty and Foody’s Gourmet was empty, too. And not just of people — the shelves and cases were also somewhat sparse. A variety of products are offered; but my impression was that the refrigerated cases and surrounding shelves begged for a more voluptuous display of merchandise. The store is very pretty, with warm colors and lots of light from large windows. The far wall opposite the entrance proudly showcases long, crusty baguettes. The cases just below the wall of bread hold loaves of bread, croissants, rolls, quiche and various pastry, all of which had a very handmade look to them. I also spotted imported French goods, including olive oil, cheese and candy, but the volume was slim. I’m all for minimalism and but something felt awkward and still.

I was warmly greeted by a woman who helped me select some brightly colored macaroons, and I ordered a latte for the road. The two bright-red spicy chocolate macaroons were splendid; I was less fond of the olive and pistachio versions, which didn’t really seem to have a distinct flavor.

The smell of freshly baked bread wafted throughout the bakery, and I admired the chic, thoughtful design of the store. Someone with a good eye but wisely uninterested in cutesy La Madeleine-like features worked on putting together the interior. Between Foody’s Gourmet and Le Mistral lies a little courtyard patio that might be ideal for alfresco dining except for the blazing sun which beats down upon it. While my latte was being assembled, I asked if the store offered lunch items to-go. Although they have a couple items available (namely quiche) for lunch-time diners, I was told that Le Mistral retained the strong hold on the meal crowd. “But what about grabbing a few things for lunch in the morning, for the folks getting their coffee before work?” I asked. The woman behind the counter smiled and shrugged.

Prior to my visit I hopped on foodysgourmet.com (which also happens to be the website listed on the business card I took away with me) and didn’t find any information about the French specialty bake shop, and I couldn’t find anything on the Le Mistral website either. I did come across a mention on Urban Spoon — one lone review — that was positive, but nothing else.

So here’s what I took away from my visit: Foody’s Gourmet’s location is fantastic, its ownership is experienced and well liked, and the concept is much needed in the area. A pinch of marketing and more merchandise would spur some well-deserved business.

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