Étoile means “star” in French, and besides being a nice name for a restaurant, it may allude a bit to the notable chef who recently left San Diego’s food world to come to Houston. Having personally spent quite a bit of time in San Diego over the past few years, I can say with some authority that restaurants in San Diego are very good, but the food landscape is nothing like Houston’s crackling culinary scene.
Chef Philippe Verpiand felt that Houston’s growth was what was needed to support his vision, and closed shop at Cavallion, his former restaurant. The closure made news in the local San Diego media, so I’m sure it is missed. San Diego’s loss is Houston’s gain.
Verpiand’s new place, Étoile Cuisine et Bar, is located in the old Andre Tellier pâtisserie location in Uptown Park and is, in fact, just a few blocks from Philippe Restaurant + Lounge. The two restaurants are so close together that one can’t help but wonder if Étoile will draw some business away from Philippe. If there is any competition between the two chef Philippes, though, it is tempered by a long friendship. The two chefs previously worked together and knew each other even before Philippe Schmit came to Houston to start his first place here, Bistro Moderne.
“He’s actually the one who told me I should come here,” said chef Verpiand. As noted in My Table’s French-themed issue from earlier this year, there aren’t very many French restaurants in Houston, so there is certainly room for one more good one. We visited on a Monday night, which is one of the slowest nights of the week for many restaurants, and yet Étoile’s main dining room was about two-thirds full at one point. Obviously, they have an opportunity to win diners over. But will they?
Based on my visit, I think they have an excellent shot at succeeding over the long haul. Verpiand’s wife, Monica Bui, is taking an active hand in training their staff. “We’re teaching them that they need to know our customers, so when they return, we can greet them by name,” she told us. That kind of customer-oriented attitude goes a long way with Houston diners. All that’s left is to serve excellent food that seals the deal. At Étoile, it appears that it’s the entrees and desserts that will keep people coming back.
As I write this, I’m remembering Verpiand’s short ribs (Plat de Côtes de Boeuf Braisés, above). Short ribs are becoming so ubiquitous on Houston menus that they might be the new bacon. With that being said, I never tire of bacon and I don’t think that I would ever tire of these short ribs, either, which were perfect when I had them at Étoile. These were braised for six hours, bathed in a seductive wine sauce the color of deep mahogany and laid on top of a golden butternut squash mousseline. A medley of cauliflower, mushrooms, carrots and halved Brussels sprout leaves rounded the dish out perfectly.
Verpiand is apparently a master of braised meats, because I’m just as in love with his coq au vin. The chicken came out bathed in its own beautiful wine sauce, and so deeply braised that it looked more like duck.
A favorite that their San Diego customers requested over and over is a warm pastry filled with rich chocolate mousse. Ours was served alongside raspberry sorbet. I thought it was a terribly romantic, albeit unsophisticated dessert. Trust me, I don’t need sophistication to make me happy when it comes to warm chocolate. Sometimes it’s the homey, messy things that are the best.
The other dessert we had was the French-standard profiteroles. They were presented elegantly, split in half to show the tempting pistachio pastry cream. Some standards survive the test of time simply because they are delicious.
Two of the three appetizers we tried need some work. The great one was mushroom ravioli, said to be Verpiand’s signature dish at his San Diego restaurant. These mushroom-filled delights give white truffle oil a reason to exist, and the dish overall recalled chef Michael Kramer’s beloved mushroom cappuccino that he used to serve at Voice. The foie gras appetizer, though, reminded me that it’s not enough for foie gras to simply be seared. It needs a little salt, too. There was another appetizer that was also failed, but I’m going to decline to name it as I was informed that it was not as it is normally served; I’d rather you give it a fair chance before I dissuade you from it.
There are a whole slew of other dishes I want to go back and try. The menu is two-sided, with one side being traditional French dishes and the other represents more modern and seasonal applications. On my hit list for next time: fourme d’ambert tart with wine-poached pears and the cassoulet, and I’ve just got to get another taste of those braised beef short ribs.
Chef Verpiand and Monica, welcome to Houston. I’m glad you’re here.
Étoile Cuisine et Bar 1101 Uptown Park Blvd. 832- 668-5808 etoilecuisine.com