Last week, we posted a demonstration video of executive chef Michael Pellegrino of Añejo showing us how to prepare fajita steak. This week, as guests of the restaurant, we tasted (and sipped) a few more of the restaurant’s upscale Tex-Mex offerings.
Añejo occupies the space that was once Arturo’s Uptown Italiano in Uptown Park. It took Lasco Enterprises — the restaurant group that owns Max’s Wine Dive, The Tasting Room and Flow — just three weeks to flip the space into a modern, sexy restaurant. Añejo bowed in on Tuesday, March 24 — right on schedule.
Entering, you’ll note crimson-colored booths, white tablecloths, luscious pendant-dripping chandeliers and, if he’s around, veteran general manager Charles Criswell. Like the wallpaper? Look closely: The pattern is a repeat of traditional Mexican sugar skulls. (Imagine houseguests’ reactions if you hung this on your powder room walls.) The private dining room, which seats roughly 14, is wrapped in a deep red fabric — very bawdy house. And the U-shaped bar lined with red leather stools is poised to become a popular happy hour destination — from 12 to 6 pm, select beverages are half off.
And speaking of happy hour, the house margarita (photo above) — on the rocks, no salt — is served in a simple rocks glass (no clunky margarita/beer mugs here) with a wedge of lime. The combination of Maestro Dobel Diamante Tequila, Cointreau, lime and honey has no syrup-y sweetness, just fresh, tart flavor.
We began lunch with the ceviche of the day featuring branzini (market price, photo above). The marinated fish is tossed with red onions, avocado and bits of sweet mango. It is simply prepared and presented, but executed well.
Shrimp a las brazas ($19.50, photo above) is also a noteworthy starter. Four large Gulf shrimp are stuffed with a jalapeño sliver and Oaxaca cheese, wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon and grilled. A small glass of melted citrus butter is presented for dipping, not that they need it. The shrimp arrive on a small chopping block with a tiny hibachi (a single hot coal sits beneath the grill top) so diners can continue to crisp up their bacon, if inclined.
Gulf coast snapper tacos ($24, photo above) are bedded in sturdy house-made corn tortillas. (There was no tortilla breakage.) Cilantro emulsion and avocado relish, along with pickled cabbage, made these some of the most refreshing fish tacos anywhere. Pricy, yes; delicious, yes.
Our waiter warned that the venison mole ($21, photo above) with poblanos, salsa de molcajete (stone-ground salsa) and queso fresco is a spicy dish. And it was. Big booming flavors, fork-tender venison and the house-made tortillas, it’s among the “hottest” dishes on the menu.
It’s worth noting that most of the entrees, excluding the fajitas and parrilladas (grilled entrees), do not come with sides and must be ordered a la cart, family-style. This menu feature — and the menu prices — resemble that of a steak house or fine-dining restaurant. But let’s not forget, Añejo’s version of Mexican food is upscale and so are the premium ingredients, fine glassware, tequila/mezcal collection and setting.
Añejo, 1180-1 Uptown Park Blvd, 713-963-9053, anejotexmex.com