Pork rillettes, borscht, tartare and tartines … These may be foreign to the palates of Houstonians more tuned to Tex-Mex, burgers and Gulf seafood. But you’ll find them headlining at the newly opened and much-talked-about Hunky Dory, the British-American eatery from the Treadsack group (Down House, D& T Drive Inn, Johnny’s Gold Brick, Foreign Correspondents, Bernadine’s).
Hunky Dory opened its doors for dinner in the beginning of October. With executive chef Richard Knight (formerly of Feast) at the kitchen’s helm, Hunky Dory has already received rave reviews for its creative and adventurous approach to British cuisine. At dinner you can expect dishes like whole hog cavatelli, pork chops served in fours, chicken and eggs, and a 40-oz. cote de boeuf with bone marrow and bordelaise sauce.
The restaurant began serving lunch just three weeks ago, and the My Table team stopped in this week for a taste. As so often happens with mid-day menus around town, the Hunky Dory lunch menu lacked the same adventurous spirit exhibited by the dinner menu, specifically the entrees. Perhaps it’s because the restaurant doesn’t fire up the wood-burning hearth until dinner, or maybe it’s the kitchen’s attempt to offer lighter, less-filling options for the noon crowd.
With that being said, lunch at Hunky Dory might be a better option for first-timer diners if you are unfamiliar with traditional British cuisine, as the menu is definitely more approachable. We started with the ploughman’s lunch ($16, photo above), similar to the “silver salver” spread found on the dinner menu. Served on a wood cutting board are cheddar cheese, country-style pistachio-studded terrine, chicken liver pate, Branston pickle (a chunky sweet-and-spicy British chutney), pickled onions, a chowchow-like relish and toasted bread. This isn’t the humble ploughman’s lunch of cheese, onion slices and bread served with sinus-clearing mustard at McSorley’s Old Ale House in New York. It’s lavish and plentiful – a perfect starter to nibble on while sipping an English pale ale or, heck, just make it lunch.
Lunchtime menu options include a soup and salad combo, fish and chips, bacon and tomato sandwich, a two-patty burger, roast butternut squash, shepherd’s pie and steak frites. The beer-battered grouper ($18, photo above) is served with a tangy tartar sauce, fried nicely and served with a friendly helping of fries. It’s a safe choice – and the waitress brings a bottle of vinegar without prompting.
The roast butternut squash ($14, also found on the dinner menu, photo above) is portioned just right for lunch. A few discs of tender butternut squash sit atop a ladle of buttermilk porridge and brown butter satsuma vinaigrette. It’s topped with a barley and seed salad and charred Brussels sprout leaves. Calling oatmeal and porridge enthusiasts only: The textures are unusual and received mixed reviews at the table.
We also tried the shepherd’s pie ($16, photo above) topped with mashed potatoes, cheese and leeks. The first bite of any meat pie is always a sensual experience – dipping the spoon into layers of cheese and potato, digging for the meaty mixture while steam gently rises. It’s an indulgent dish, and this one is no different. It’s served with a side of minted peas, which help to cut the richness of the meat.
In sum, if you’re unfamiliar with British cuisine, we think you’ll find the lunch menu at Hunky Dory to be a safe and enjoyable approach. Consider yourself an adventurous eater? Wait to dine during the later hours.
Hunky Dory, 1801 N. Shepherd, 713-864-2450, treadsack.com/hunkydory