Montrose recently welcomed a new pan-Asian concept to the neighborhood, Jimmy Chew Asian Kitchen. Located on lower Westheimer at Mandell in Vinoteca Poscol’s former location, it’s a late-night spot with a trendy atmosphere and an extensive menu created by partners Irwin Palchick and David Truong.
The menu draws from several sources, but most strongly takes inspiration from China and Vietnam, with some Malaysian influences, too. The new owners have ramped up the energy in the room. Where it once was quaint, it’s now more powerful. The makeover is by Gindesignsgroup, which also did Oxheart, Camerata, Public Services and F Bar. The logo? Look closely. It’s inspired by Chinese characters, but up close you can see the initials “J.C.” drawn in sweeping strokes, followed by a smiley face drawn below it.
The interior is split. One room tucked away to the right features sleek green Asian-inspired furniture and dark lighting. This is the spot for leisurely dinners. The other room shares space with the bar and expresses a more casual vibe with high tables and stools.
Ordering is counter service-style, and the menu tosses an eclectic variety of Asian cuisines together. There’s Vietnamese pho and vermicelli noodles, kimchi fried rice, stir-fries, raw oysters, Cantonese short ribs and General Tso’s chicken. For dessert, ice cream from Hey Mikey’s and house-made cakes and pies are available.
The accommodating staff is happy to make recommendations. They guided me, a first-time visitor, to mango spring rolls ($5.95, photo above), shrimp in lobster sauce ($11.50, photo below) and kimchi fried rice ($10.95). The spring rolls, dunked in a rich oyster sauce mixed with chili sauce and peanuts, serves as a hearty appetizer and might even stand in for a late supper, if you like.
Shrimp in lobster sauce comes with a neat pyramid of jasmine rice – brown or fried rice are other options. It’s a great pairing, albeit a little on the salty side. The shrimp bobs in a savory dark broth dotted with wispy bits of cooked egg. [Editor’s note: Did you know there is no lobster in shrimp with lobster sauce? According to cookbook author and cooking instructor Dorothy Huang, the name comes from a dish that originally featured lobster in a sauce. When cooks began subbing shrimp for lobster, the name became “shrimp in lobster sauce.”]
The kimchi fried rice is the real catch. It’s a simple dish with heaps of rice stir-fried in kimchi, chicken and green onion. The fried egg on top has a runny yolk that seeps into the rice and helps to mellow out any bites of chili spice.
In addition to the Asian menu, there’s also a “‘Merica” sidebar that features good ol’ American dishes, including hamburgers, grilled-cheese sandwiches, hot dogs and lobster rolls. Because maybe that is what you feel like after a lively night out.
Jimmy Chew’s is open until 4 am Friday and Saturday, and 1 am every other day of the week. Just be sure to get the kimchi fried rice – you won’t regret it.
Jimmy Chew Asian Kitchen, 1609 Westheimer at Mandell, 713-528-2439, eatatchew.com