Weekend mornings are meant for inhaling the heady smell of freshly baked bread and pastries. Add some South Asian spices, and that’s the vibe you will find at Oporto Fooding House and Wine’s newest concept, a pop-up bakery called Natas.
Natas, headed by Oporto’s pastry chef Tony Stein, formerly of Common Bond, pays homage to Portuguese street food and incorporates Indian flair with aromatic spices inspired by Oporto’s co-owner Shiva DiVirgilio’s heritage. The pop-up exists for now to gauge interest, implementing a counter service that will hopefully move into the space next door to be a new branch of Oporto’s domain. We recently stopped in for a complimentary sample.
Everything is baked the day of. Stein gets an early start, firing up the ovens at 3 am. And his work ethic pays off beautifully. The menu is extensive, featuring sweet options such as pāo de deus (pistachio brioche buns with almond cardamom streusel), pastel de nata (lemon custard tarts), caracol (snail-shaped danishes rolled with custard, cinnamon and golden raisins) and Portuguese-style doughnuts. There are even gluten-free choices, such as buckwheat or spelt cookies. On the savory side, there are croissants layered with ham, crème fraiche and raclette cheese – a nod to Stein’s French-style pastry training – spiced beef croquettes and pāo khachapuri, a mass of cheeses and sous-vide eggs ringed by pizza-like dough.
I was told that the pastel de nata ($5, photo below) has been the most popular item so far, and I can see why. The pastry shell feels dainty and light, easy to slice through but substantial enough to hold the custard. The nata shows off an alluring light yellow hue flecked with vanilla bean, and the lemon flavor shines through with a hint of tartness at the end.
For a taste of fall, pumpkin masaladas ($5) are little doughnuts airy and soft inside, lightly fried to dark brown on the outside and drizzled with saffron ginger syrup. The final pastry I tried, the Portuguese-style brioche doughnut bursting with blackberry jam and nata custard ($5), serves as a combination of the masaladas and the tart. Smatterings of citrus sugar encompass the doughnut’s generous size, and the whole confection vanished within minutes with bite after bite of indulgence.
The Oporto staff recommended that I try the pāo khachapuri ($8, photo below), and it came out in a gorgeous canoe shape with twin sous-vide eggs resting on top of the assortment of cheeses – gruyère, São Jorge and mozzarella. Its thick outline of bread is reminiscent of French baguette, slightly charred on top for a smoky taste. But cheese makes the statement here, along with a sprinkle of pepper. The eggs soak into the bread quite nicely for a hearty, filling meal.
Oporto also offers a beverage menu, including a homemade chai spiked with a shot of espresso to make it “dirty” ($5). Strong notes of cardamom and clove offer a kick at the end that will wake you up. Pair this with a pastel de nata (or a box of them, for that matter) to taste this wonderful fusion of India and Portugal and, of course, treat yourself.
Natas Pop-Up at Oporto Fooding House, 125 W Gray St. 3 blocks west of Bagby, 713-528-0115, oportomidtown.us
Hours: Sat. and Sun. 8 to 11 am