Kangaroo. Wallaby. Echidna. Dingo. Koala. Wombat. Platypus.
Australia has an impressive collection of unusual animals with fun-to-say names. In fact, we did a little research on what exactly a platypus is: “The unusual appearance of this egg-laying, duck-billed, beaver-tailed, otter-footed mammal baffled European naturalists when they first encountered it, with some considering it an elaborate hoax.” This past spring, when we learned that an Australian brewery and restaurant named Platypus was opening on Washington Avenue, we were immediately drawn to the light-hearted name, as well as the concept – there isn’t much of an Australian culinary scene in Houston.
One of Houston’s best known Aussies, however, is supporting this new venture. Jason Gould, previously the chef at the late Gravitas and currently the executive chef at Cyclone Anaya’s, has advised on the development of Platypus’ culinary menu, which is a comprehensive range of everything from pub snacks and shared plates to specialty Australian meat pies, sandwiches and even desserts.
Kerry Embertson, head brewer, comes to Texas by way of California and is brewing beer with Australian hops so that each menu item pairs well with each beer. (In fact, the menu denotes the best match for each plate described.) To quote the restaurant marketing, their mantra is “brewed with Texan heart and Australian soul.”
For first-timers wanting the real Platypus experience, we suggest you pair the steak and mushroom meat pie ($8, photo below) with the rich, creamy brown ale. This meat pie is a sophisticated version of the classic ground beef-and-gravy combination. Underneath the layer of flakey puff pastry you’ll find tender brisket, wild mushrooms, herbs and an ale demi-glace.
Another fun Australian snack on offer is the sausage roll ($7). The version here is served with shaved fennel and house-made tomato sauce (or ketchup to us Americans). And according to Gould, if it doesn’t burn your mouth on the first bite, it doesn’t count. The light-bodied (and light-colored) Box Kick IPA, with delicate notes of caramel at the back of the mouth, cuts through the robust sausage-stuffed pastry perfectly.
It’s easy to fill up on beer and meat pies here, but do save room for their Texas-sized lamingtons, a classic Australian dessert. A sweet sponge cake is dipped in dark chocolate and dusted in coconut, a fair dinkum tribute to the Aussie favorite.