Ritual, the new restaurant that took over the space formerly occupied by El Cantina Superior at the corner of Studewood and White Oak, has only been open for about two weeks but has already generated enough neighborhood buzz to draw a full house during a Thursday lunch service. (The photo below was taken about 30 minutes after the restaurant opened for lunch. It was packed when we left.)
The new neighborhood joint, which pulls its menu inspiration from ranchers and farmers across the state of Texas, is under the same ownership as the defunct El Cantina Superior, but owner Ken Bridge (of Delicious Concepts) has brought in some new partners. First is Felix Florez, whose company Black Hill Ranch raises heritage breed pigs and sells to chefs across Texas. His involvement is immediately apparent from the glass-fronted meat-hanging room positioned at the back of the restaurant.
Then there’s chef Jordan Asher (formerly of Dosi) at the kitchen’s helm. The idea here was simple – small menu, big flavors. And sharing of plates is encouraged. Don’t overlook the cocktail menu, either, which is under the direction of Peter Clifton. Two recommendations: the Chiapensis ($10, tequila, watermelon, lime, honey and hibiscus) and Blood & Sand ($8 photo below, mezcal, grapefruit sherbet, kirsch and sweet vermouth).
We think you would be making a mistake if you didn’t order the Granbury Gold Cheese Skillet ($14, photo below) to start your meal. The blend of funky cheese mixed with green tomato chutney and pecans is so right. It’s everything you would want on a cheese board – sweet and tangy chutney, nuts for texture and, of course, cheese – but melted and ready to scoop up with pretzel beignets. The best part? The crisp bits of fried cheese stuck to the bottom of the skillet.
One thing worth mentioning before moving onto the entrees is that, for the most part, it’s not light eating here at Ritual. This will undoubtedly be your indulgent meal of the week. With that said, the moist lamb burger ($17, photo below) is worthy of anyone’s cheat day. It’s studded with candied lamb bacon, Pure Luck feta, pickled peppers and a mint salsa verde. This is where meal sharing could come in handy. Half of the burger is plenty satisfying.
The reason we stopped at Ritual for lunch this week was because we had already heard about The Angry Bird ($13, photo below) fried chicken sandwich. Why’s it so angry? It might have something to do with the cayenne pepper rub that packs enough heat it requires a warning message from your server. Per Bridge’s suggestion, we ordered the spicy brown sugar sauce on the side, and the heat was very manageable. It’s served with a side of finely diced potato salad to help cool your palate. If spicy buffalo wings are your thing, you’ll want to try this dish.
Bridge has had difficulty with this location, but if the food quality and service (which was excellent – thanks, Christopher!) continue at this level, we don’t think the neighbors will have any problems welcoming Ritual into the area.
Ritual, 602 Studewood, 832-203-5180, ritualhouston.com
Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 11 am to 10 pm; Fri.-Sat. 11 am to 11 pm