Studewood Hospitality Group, the restaurant group behind Glass Wall in The Heights and Brooklyn Athletic Club in Montrose, has opened its third concept in a third neighborhood. The Del, located where Memorial, Tanglewood and Briargrove mash together, offers what its handlers call a “country-club casual” atmosphere.
Executive chef Albert Vasquez, who most recently served as the culinary director for Dish Society and previously worked with Scott Tycer at Aries and Gravitas, runs the kitchen. Restaurateur Shepard Ross – who helped to develop the group’s first two concepts – was not involved with the opening of The Del.
The Del is situated on Del Monte right behind Roegels Barbecue Co. just to the east of Voss. It’s next door to the recently opened Bramble and across the street from Arturo Boada Cuisine. The dining room seats 65, with more seating at the wrap-around bar and outside on the 1,400-square-foot deck equipped with TVs and outdoor games – a spot for everyone in the family.
As guests of the restaurant, we stopped in for lunch last week. As noted above, the menu includes dishes you might find at your neighborhood country club – think crabcakes, entree salads, burgers and sandwiches – but executed with a bit more flare and flavor.
The crabcake, for example, is topped with spicy remoulade and South Texas escabeche ($16, photo above). It’s beautifully plated and very tender. The pickled veggies are a tangy – and unusual – garnish paired with the classic remoulade. It was the best thing we tried.
Other starters include yellowfin tuna tartare with sweet chili sauce served on a wonton chip ($12), meatballs in marinara ($10) and chips and queso ($8), to which you can add a short rib. And here’s a new one to us: a dinner appetizer called “gnocchi tots” ($12, photo below). It’s crisp-fried potato gnocchi served in a cheddar and ale fondue and finished with a sprinkle of fried onions. It’s a naughty dish – you could think of it as fancy poutine – and we couldn’t stop eating it.
The clubhouse burger is your classic cheeseburger with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, Swiss cheese and aioli ($12). The grill imparts a nice smokiness to the meat, but be sure to indicate your preferred temperature – ours was well done and dry. Another classic is the “fgtb” or fried green tomato bacon club ($14, photo below) that comes slathered with remoulade and served with a side of fries (as is the burger).
From the pasta section on the lunch menu, we tried rigatoni with braised short rib bolognese ($16, photo below) that is topped with roasted cauliflower and pecorino. The short rib is tender if a bit fatty, and the cauliflower is a surprising crunch of texture. Was it the best bolognese we’ve had? No. Would we order it again? Yes.
Note to folks with children: The Del is very kid-friendly. Sit on the patio and let them enjoy the yard games. There’s menu for them, too, with options that include a junior club burger, chicken tenders with cheese sauce and spaghetti and meatballs, $9 each.
The Del just east of Voss, 6565 Del Monte, 713-750-9259, thedelhtx.com