Our local economy has been maimed these past two years as oil prices came crashing down, so it’s encouraging to see that fine-dining restaurants continue to fight the good fight. (By the way, it seems that the economy may now be in recovery mode.) It was especially evident during the winter holidays that oil and gas businesses in Houston were tightening belts and cutting budgets – and in turn the hospitality industry had to bear a very lean holiday season, even with the run-up to the Super Bowl. With the crisis now behind us – fingers crossed – nice restaurants are churning out new menus for spring and summer, beckoning patrons to come in and treat themselves.
Varo’s Vampiros Vegetarianos, 1962
During a recent media event at BCN Taste & Tradition, chef Luis Roger showed off several new menu items. First impression: His sensual and sophisticated plating style, which has helped make BCN a destination restaurant in Montrose. The restaurant’s bar program (overseen by Jerry Arguelles) matches the food menu in terms of delighting patrons. The Spanish are known for their attention to details and conveying messages in a creative, sometimes obtuse way: Consider painter Remedios Varo Uranga (painting at left), whose surrealist style often was had vibrant and detailed (if not off-the-wall) scenes highlighted within a broad, simple background. (Not food-related, but do you know who else is Spanish, off-the-wall, slightly bizarre and transformative? Actor Javier Bardem. He somehow manages to completely creep out and capture the attention of audiences. He’s played plenty of villains in films like No Country for Old Men and Skyfall, and was too dreamy in Eat Pray Love, below.)
Javier Bardem and Julia Roberts in Eat, Pray, Love (2010)
Among the dream-like combinations and symbolic placement of details at BCN, you’ll find a tentacle here, a flower there on the food. Whimsical garnishes on BCN’s cocktails and plates are not precious in the restaurant’s setting, but thoughtful and pretty.
BCN Taste & Tradition chef Luis Roger
Some of our favorite bites and sips from the media tasting:
A blood orange gin & tonic, featuring saffron-infused Beefeater 24 gin, orange bitters and star anise.
Gin is your thing? Take a gander at the other extravagant combinations offered, if you’re in the mood to try something new.
The beet, pistachio and raspberry ravioli salad with fresh lemon yogurt and pistachio oil ($15)
Pan-seared calamari with caramelized onions and squid ink olive oil ($26)
GM Paco Calza holds sautéed sea cucumbers with lobster rice ($32).
Confit pork cheeks, sweet pea puree, carrot and grilled shrimp ($45)
Strawberry and orange tart with lemon cream and Pedro Ximenez reduction ($10)
BCN Taste & Tradition, 4210 Roseland at Richmond Avenue, bcnhouston.com
Hours: Closed Sun. & Mon., Tues. to Thurs. 5:30-10 pm, Fri. & Sat. 5-11 pm