With sister concept and popular lunch destination Local Foods just next door, Benjy’s in Rice Village decided to change up its mid-day menu and offer something a bit different. Instead of a traditional lunch menu, the restaurant now serves brunch seven days a week beginning at 10:45 am.
The new Spring brunch menu, created by chefs Geoff Hundt and Spencer Serrette, consists of small plates, salads, large plates, omelets, sandwiches and both cocktails and mocktails. (Speaking of which: See the current issue of My Table magazine for writer Amber Ambrose’s round-up of Masterful Mocktails.)
It was late morning this past Monday when we were invited in to sample the new brunch menu. With a full week of work still ahead, we sipped two of the bar’s non-alcoholic concoctions: the Spring Breaker (photo above, left) and the Bluebonnet (photo anove, right).
The former is a mix of fresh lime and orange wedges, mint, Tahitian vanilla and soda. The Bluebonnet is a tart combination of fresh blueberries, lemons, raspberries, strawberries and soda. Both are refreshing, and at only $3.50, an inexpensive indulgence.
One of the classic brunch dishes available is the brioche French toast ($13, photo above) topped with vanilla whipped cream, cranberry jam and cane syrup. It’s not too sweet, as the cranberry jam provides a layer of tartness. The granola made of nuts/seeds adds crunch.
Rolled out as a special on Easter Sunday, the ancient grains vegetable dish (photo above) begins with buckwheat, amaranth, quinoa and black lentils and is one of the most unusual dishes we’ve sampled in quite a while. Tossed with the four “ancient grains” are things like crispy chickpeas, dill fronds, mint leaves, shredded red cabbage, broccoli florets and wisps of shaved fennel, all lightly enrobed in a honey miso sauce and crowned with tzatziki-flavored scrambled egg whites. The entire mash-up sits in a swipe of cardamom yogurt. At first, this dish threw us off and we ate in silence. But bit by bit, it grew on us as the combination of flavors and textures changed with each bite. It was like some crazy chopped salad.
For folks who want “lunch”-like options, there’s still much to choose from, including the hearts of romaine salad ($8/14, photo above). Normally we stray away from things labeled “GF” or “vegan,” because we like our grains and cheese, but this healthful take on a Caesar salad is full of bright flavors. The vegan Caesar dressing substitutes tofu for egg in the dressing and miso for the traditional anchovy flavor. It is topped with radish slices and crunchy seeds as well as a shaving of grana padano (the only ingredient keeping this salad from being fully vegan). We’re hoping to see this creative twist on a Caesar as an entry in October’s annual Caesar Salad Competition.
Last of the savory dishes was the smoked salmon toast ($14, photo above). The silky house-smoked salmon was some of the best we’ve had, and the topping of a fried egg, tzatziki salad with tiny slices of cucumber, mashed avocado and fennel sprouts makes this a filling (and flavorful) dish. Note: The dish typically comes with scrambled egg whites, but you can opt for a fried duck egg as we did.
We didn’t save room for Mom’s Chocolate Cake, but the daily sorbet ($6, photo above) — blueberry Champagne sorbet served with Atkinson Farms’ strawberries and peppery candied ginger — was the perfect palate cleanser.
It was a Monday morning well spent.
Benjy’s, 2424 Dunstan, 713-522-7602, benjys.com