Upstairs, the old party patio has been reworked into a dining room. Heaters mounted on framework in the ceiling ensure no one gets a chill, and plastic coverings tied to the outside railing keep out the February wind. In time, they’ll be furled to welcome the warm weather.
I know you’re probably wondering: Despite the name, the place isn’t helmed by anyone named “Cook” or “Collins.” The restaurant name is an amalgamation of chef-partner Jared Estes’ grandmother’s last name and his favorite cocktail, the Collins.
The menu theme is “straightforward with a twist.” Some of the dishes are the kind of thing you might design yourself. Creamy macaroni and cheese, for example, is punched up with nubbins of sun-dried tomatoes. The Oyster Rockefeller Fondue (photo below) is spinach dip with fried oysters on top. (The kitchen got carried away with salt, alas, on our first visit.)
There are four burgers, including a quinoa “burger,” but I recommend the classic C&C grass-fed beef burger on a challah bun that includes a parm chip among its toppings. The French fries siding the burger, by the way, were outstanding. The beet and arugula salad (photo below) was so good that I wouldn’t let the remnants go even when the next dish arrived — and I’m not even an arugula fan. It’s amongst the most peppery of salad greens, and yet when it’s treated properly with a sufficiently acidic dressing, it can be delightful. The beets were not visible at first, but it turned out they were hidden beneath the greens. Creamy goat cheese quenelles didn’t hurt the dish one bit.
There are plenty of other low-guilt options here, too. Seared organic salmon with quinoa and kale “chimichurri” doesn’t leave you much to feel bad about. But if you’re seeking indulgence, Cook & Collins’ riff on s’mores (photo below) — a super-fudgy soft brownie with toasted marshmallows on top — will satisfy any chocolate cravings you might have.
Remember the recent article in My Table magazine about the desserts-in-jars trends (Dec-Jan 14 edition)? The kitchen here sends out homey butterscotch pudding in a Ball jar sided with a pair of warm oatmeal and Rice Krispies cookies.
Cook & Collins fills the gap left since Midtown favorite Farrago’s closed. Actually, it does better than that, as the food here is significantly better than Farrago’s was in its final years. Thanks to the valet out front, you won’t have to fight to find a parking space, either.
This is a handy spot for a casual lunch or dinner, whether for business or pleasure. Reportedly, they’re already doing about 240 covers on the weekends, so it sounds like Cook & Collins is quickly finding a following. The management also just started a weekend brunch, which will likely to become a favorite with nearby residents and out-all-night party-goers as well.
There aren’t any blue margaritas here like those oddly beloved drinks served at El Patio. (But then again, you should never choose a place to eat based on the color of its drinks.) If you’re in Midtown looking for solid unpretentious fare in a clean and equally unpretentious place, Cook & Collins might be just what you’re looking for.
COOK & COLLINS, 2416 Brazos, 832-701-1973, cookandcollins.com