Lowbrow is the sort of place I don’t want to tell people about, because I’m not too keen on more folks crowding up my beloved Montrose-area coffee shops, bars and restaurants.
Just this Saturday, close to 49 caffeine junkies and myself were lined up at the cash register inside of Blacksmith, eagerly awaiting our 9 am dosage. (Okay, it was really just maybe eight people in front of me in line, but it felt like a mob when I saw the 10 behind me.) While the crowd moved quickly and the coffee service was prompt, I realized that there is a greedy part of myself that doesn’t want to share quirky neighborhood joints with the others. I’m happy that small businesses in my neighborhood are doing so well, bitter that the weird guy next to me with the huge purple backpack just showed me his homemade slingshot, and now I’ve got to pretend to read my email while our coffees are in the queue.
So when I sat down at Lowbrow last week and noshed on some menu samplings, I started to feel territorial. A place that serves real food, cocktails, beer, wine and coffee? Keep it under your hat!
One thing I will mention first is that Lowbrow’s location is exciting. I live about two blocks behind Brasil, which is great if you want to walk over for a pizza and a beer with your neighbor. That also means I live almost behind Poison Girl, so on the weekends parking is sticky on our street. Meaning everyone who is drinking PBR from the can at Poison Girl or brunching with their in-laws at Brasil is parked in front of my house. If Brasil is busy, they probably skipped across the street to Agora instead, and with fancy bakery cafe Common Bond about to open, I can’t imagine what the traffic at Westheimer and Dunlavy is going to be like in the coming months.
Lowbrow isn’t near Westheimer and Dunlavy. It’s located at 1601 W. Main — the old Cafe Artiste spot — which is near Mandell and Richmond near the Menil Collection. Yay for not having Lowbrow customers park in front of our house. Please note that Lowbrow has a parking lot for their customers, which is very nice for both their diners and neighbors.
The menu changes regularly but offerings range from breakfast to not breakfast, and each week one of the not-breakfast specials is named after a famous deceased Texan. Last week’s special, the Crazy Swayze, was a take on Lowbrow’s Juicy Lucy burger ($12), and it included a Ghost pepper mash-up marinade and manchengo cheese (shown just above). Check out this week’s Anna Nicole burger listed on the chalk board (photo at top). If you’re popping in for drinks with friends and looking for something light to nosh on, the crispy fried green beans with miso dipping sauce are my pick for favorite shareable.
I could tell you that the specialty cocktail — the pink and tart Falliday — was my favorite sample from the bar, but it was the gingerbread hot toddy that made me want to curl up and take a nap after my meal concluded. The evening was a nippy 75 degrees and humid, and if two burgers, two cocktails and four appetizers weren’t going to put me to sleep, a warm and cozy cup of alcoholic tea sure did.
I wouldn’t classify Lowbrow as “for the kids” — there was a toddler and family dining behind me, and a few suits sipping on Manhattans at the booth across from me — but keep in mind that the atmosphere is tidy and sleek but warm and eclectic. In typical Montrose fashion you’ll see all types of people. Keep your eyes peeled for the Ronald Reagan bust in drag make-up and don’t be startled by some very unusual music mixed in with classic MoTown, Alt Rock and old Texas country. Guests have access to free Wifi, too,
LOWBROW 1601 W. Main at Mandell, 281-501-8288 lowbrowhouston.com