Next year will mark the 65th anniversary of Nielsen’s Delicatessen, a European staple that has always called Houston its home. The small deli, widely famous for the gallons of homemade mayonnaise that it makes, uses and sells, is on the north side of Richmond Avenue near Mid Lane. It is one of the few Scandinavian-accented outposts in all of Texas.
The business has survived as a result of strong family ties and hard work: Ownership has been under the same family since 1952, and quality and consistency have remained free from compromise.
The regular menu presents an array of items from Danish deviled eggs to cheesecake to homemade crab salad – a line-up that sounds a little like Viking soul food. It is easy to understand the apparent sentimentality that many of Nielsen’s customers have toward the humble six-seat deli.
My Table recently sat down for a chat with owner Richard Andersen to discuss the deli’s family history. We wanted to hear about his experience owning a Danish deli in the land of Tex-Mex and barbecue and, of course, ask a few nosy questions.
Were your parents the original owners?
Actually it was before them. My dad (Richard Andersen Sr.) fell in love with a girl, that girl moved over here to New York. He moved from Denmark to New York to follow her – that was Ellen, my mom. The in-laws, Vita and Niels, started this business originally. They had had a mink farm back in Denmark before the war. They eventually brought the deli to Houston. Long hours, low pay and a family work ethic really made it all work.
is it important for Nielsen’s to maintain an authentic vibe?
When people come to Nielsen’s they expect the same quality as it has always been. They want to feel the same way they did when they walked in the very first time. We’re doing some renovations right now and had to take down a Danish poster of kings and queens; that poster has been up forever. Well, you know, we must’ve had 100 people ask where that poster went. It’s just comfortable, with the same family that’s always been here. It’s everything. You know we make our own mayo – it’s the key to the salads. Real turkeys, whole birds with only select cuts for the sandwiches. It adds up.
How has the deli not only survived, but flourished, in such an eclectic city?
Our demographic is everyone. It’s important to have consistent standards. In the very beginning they had to make changes and adapt. They had to cut the menu; Dad took over and cut what wasn’t needed to get the volume up. He had to get the volume up but maintain quality. He had to cut things like pickled herring (a Danish favorite).
Are there memories that stand out?
Ha! The smell of the red cabbage (rodkaal). The smell of that red cabbage would permeate through the whole house whenever my mom would cook it. Still to this day, I have to walk outside my house whenever I smell that red cabbage cooking.
As much as Nielsen’s is Danish, it also feels very Houston. So Who is your favorite Houston sports icon.
I love all Houston sports. This may be giving my age away a little – ha! – but I’m going to have to go with Earl Campbell.