Throughgood Coffee, which opened just last Saturday, has found a sleek new home on W. 27th Street and S. Shepherd in The Heights. Pastor Rudy Rasmus of St. John’s Church owns the concept, and a part of the proceeds benefit charity organizations that serve Houston’s homeless – Bread of Life and Temenos Housing. Throughgood Coffee seeks to not only bring people together through good brews and food, but also to raise awareness of our community’s needs.
We recently went for an afternoon pick-me-up and noted the spacious gravel lot off to one side of the coffee shop. The building sports brick walls, pops of orange and wooden tones for a bright industrial vibe. In fact, the reclaimed material for the walls comes from abandoned shipping pallets. You’ll find a wondrously large patio with umbrellas and tables scattered outside, and the interior’s dim coziness offsets the bright lightbulbs hanging downward. An open bar allows you to observe the baristas hard at work. These folks take their work seriously – one has “Death before decaf” tattooed on his arm.
The menu, written in chalk above the bar, includes sophisticated slow bar offerings (pour-over with Gold Cup Kalita, V60 or Chemex) and specialty espresso beverages such as the espresso old-fashioned ($4) and the “Good Morning” ($4.50, $0.25 extra for almond milk). Throughgood sources its coffee from Amaya Roasting Company and teas from Camellia Teas (blended and packaged right here in Houston). House-made syrups consist of mocha, caramel and a slightly boozy whiskey vanilla. Intrigued by the espresso old-fashioned and the Good Morning, we chose to try them (choices that the barista also vouched for).
For its food offerings, Throughgood partners with Bleu Catering for scones and massive biscuits, Kraftsmen Baking for croissants and Morningstar for donuts. So plenty of baked treats await you, and we treated ourselves to a toasted cashew and tart cherry scone ($4) for an early preview of summer’s bounty.
The espresso old-fashioned (photo above) is a marvelous drink: two shots of espresso mixed with Angostura bitters and a sprinkle of orange zest, all shaken over ice. The finished product comes in a tiny glass adorned with a twist of orange peel. It’s robust and a little complicated, the bitter espresso and sprightly orange coming together for a flavor that hard-core coffee connoisseurs will appreciate.
The Good Morning leans more towards the sweeter side, but not overwhelmingly so. The secret lies in the cold brew reduction, which combines whiskey vanilla, caramel and espresso. Note that the cold brew doesn’t taste too strong here – the drink sounds complicated, but it tastes pleasantly simple.
Overall, Throughgood Coffee’s eclectic music (played on vinyl), strong menu and friendly staff make it a warm addition to The Heights’ coffee scene. Furthermore, because this concept also remains committed to improving the lives of all Houstonians, we admire their drive and positive message.
Throughgood Coffee, 732 W. 27th St., 281-501-3976, throughgoodcoffee.com
Hours: Mon. to Sat. 6:30 am-4:30 pm