About two weeks ago we had an email from a reader enthusiastic about a splendid meal he had enjoyed at Hawthorn and lamenting that he and his guests were the lone customers in the entire restaurant. What could be done to ensure the survival of this worthy newcomer?
I admit to a small groan inside. Hawthorn is the current occupant of the space that was briefly Dorsia, a “private supper club” that took its name from the ultra-exclusive restaurant in Brett Easton Ellis’s cult classic, American Psycho. With individual memberships starting at $2,000 and corporate memberships at $5,000, it opened last fall to much derision, as you might imagine. Anyone who knows Houston understands that we as a city value excellence but loathe pretention.
Its clueless investors soon closed Dorsia, and Hawthorn has risen in its stead. It opened its doors about three weeks ago. I was never invited to visit Dorsia, but I’m told Hawthorn looks the same. It’s all very 1980s glamorous (and I mean that in a good way), with diffused lighting to flatter a mature face. The tables are classically laid with white linens and heavy flatware, and there’s a floor-to-ceiling wine vault behind glass. The room is not large, just 86 seats or so. (Before it was Dorsia, this was the original location of The Dessert Gallery.)
When we visited Hawthorn earlier this week, we had the same experience as our reader: We were the only guests in the entire place. Remember the bar scene in The Shining when Jack Nicholson orders a drink from the ghostly bartender named Lloyd? That memory flashed through my mind. There were valet parkers at the ready, a charming waiter, fully stocked bar and, heading the entire operation, GM/sommelier Cory Graff, a long-time Houston restaurant pro previously with the Capital Grille. But it was an eery feeling to be alone in this beautiful room set to serve dozens.
Our hospitable waiter quickly warmed us up. Cocktails were expertly mixed and promptly delivered, along with a wine list presented on an iPad. (Like what you just drank? Send an email to yourself from the iPad with the label and description. We had the Alexana Pinot Noir from Oregon.)
Arrival of our food put the kibosh on musings about Stephen King films. Serious foodies will perk up at the mention of chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio, previously at the short-lived but much liked Sabetta Cafe & Wine Bar (where Torchy’s Tacos is now). His menu at Hawthorn is sort of New American with influences from the steakhouse genre, Italian and Mediterranean cuisines.
As I say, there were just the two of us at dinner, so we were not able to taste widely. But what we did have was very fine. We began with a salad of chargrilled baby octopus ($12), just slightly smoky, dressed with shaved red onion, olive oil, chiles and lemon. This was the first signal that our meal had serious intentions. We also ordered beef carpaccio ($14). It was not fancy or tarted up with trendy ingredients. It was just as old-school and rigorously classic as could be … and utterly delicious. The food presentation is not rustic style, as Sabetta’s tended to be.
Entrees included a double-rib pork chop ($22) grilled medium rare and served with warm cabbage slaw and pan-roasted duck breast ($25) with oven-roasted beets and a lovely chutney of cipollini and orange. There are leftovers of both entrees in my fridge at this moment, and I can’t wait to enjoy them again tonight over an arugula salad.
Finally, we concluded by sharing a wedge salad ($10) with the traditional blue cheese. Speck stood in for bacon crumbles.
Other menu choices include crabcakes, risotto, sweetbreads, gnocchi in a sauce of gorgonzola and light cream and steaks and seafood.
Graff told us that he and chef Palazzo-Giorgio really want to get it right with Hawthorn. They are still refining the menu and polishing up the service. With the blunder that was Dorsia behind them, they understand the challenge will be to convince some folks that Hawthorn is a serious restaurant. The grand opening is set for May 23. My advice: Go now while this newcomer from two restaurant pros is getting its sea legs. Chances are you will become a regular.
HAWTHORN, 3200 Kirby bet. W. Alabama & Richmond, 713-523-3600.