In the past six months, Houston chef/restaurateur Monica Pope has closed a restaurant (T’afia), opened a restaurant (Sparrow Bar + Cookshop), celebrated a 20-year anniversary in the restaurant business and turned 50. She says, “I’m wiser and more sure of myself. Women beat themselves up for not being the best at everything. I’m making a plan for the next 50 years and I’m changing how I think and what I want for the, our and my future. This year is about stepping up and out so I can enjoy life.”
Pope, who has long been the face and vocal activist for locavorism, celebrated her 50th birthday, 20 years in the restaurant business and the official grand opening of Sparrow Bar + Cookshop about 10 days ago on April 28 with a “gospel brunch for dinner.” She teamed up with her restaurant neighbor Jerry Davis, the Breakfast Klub owner and founder of the non-profit Making It Better to benefit under-served elementary students through literacy, leadership and life skills. Kids who have benefited from the Making It Better programs were at the “brunch” to greet guests and collect. There was also a raffle for a private cooking lesson with Pope and nine close friends that benefited the charity.
Pope created the evening’s menu to include more fun, less stuffy items. There were free-flowing mimosas, micheladas, a make-your-own bloody Mary bar that included cheese curds, beef jerky, cornichons and olives, and numerous breakfast-themed dishes: Date with a Pig, Deviled Eggs, Challah Bread Pudding “French Toast” with Grand Marnier Crème Anglaise, Chilaquiles, Buttermilk Biscuits with Red Onion Gravy, Omelette Salad with Crab & Cornmeal-fried Oysters & Thai-style Dressing, Shrimp ’n’Grits, Candied Bacon, Sausage on a Stick, Mango Lassis, Rice Crispie Treats and Breakfast Bars.
With a great cocktail in hand and some tasty breakfast snacks, guests enjoyed the live gospel music of Soul Fruit and DJ Juice n’ Crumb. Soul Fruit is a three-member group that got the place singing, clapping and witnessing with their very first song. Pope had explained that the tables had to be cleared out and room made because the music group is very mobile and jumps a lot. Soul Fruit did not disappoint. The spirit was in them, and they shared it with everyone. Sparrow became a church that celebrated and exalted Monica Pope, her talents, her life lessons learned, her food and gave back to the community through Making It Better.
It was the perfect evening that not only celebrated Monica Pope, but officially opened Sparrow Bar + Cookshop to Houston. Pope says, “Sparrow is where you come for comfort and company,” and her guests that evening were obviously comfortable, relaxed and feeling the spirit of the gospel dinner and reveling in the community home that Pope has created.
When Pope was 17 years old, she told a friend, “I’m going to open a restaurant and change the way Houston eats.” She didn’t know exactly what that meant or looked like but Pope has definitely changed the way Houston thinks, shops and eats food. “The minute I write a menu or a farmer comes to my back door, I’m reminded I want to change the way Houston eats.” And she has.