“The skill set of an early bartender would have included carving ice,” says Alex Gregg (of Moving Sidewalk, the downtown bar replacing Goro & Gun). “Ice used to be a luxury.” And thus begins our education regarding the process of carving cubes from massive blocks of ice for the perfect cocktail accompaniment.
Oh sure, cocktail enthusiasts and bartenders in the 21st century need venture no further than the closest freezer to obtain any quantity of ice in a range of sizes and shapes. But like all things at the bar, ice has come under close examination and, in some cases, re-invention. Among the most compelling trends is the return of the large-format ice, so named due to the hefty size most commonly presented as cubes or spheres.
“The reason for using large-format ice is that you have less surface area, so you’ll have less melting and less dilution of the cocktail,” Gregg explains. “It keeps the flavor of the drink stable and ensures the last sip is the same as the first sip and that it stays cold.” Plus, it looks cool (no pun intended).
Gregg showed us how he carves cubes and offers tips on how, with just a little elbow grease, you can do it at home with minimal investment. In no time you’ll impress friends and family with your chill new skills.
METHOD: Purchase a small Igloo cooler (Gregg notes that these often come free with a larger Igloo) and fill it to your desired height with good, clean water such as store-bought spring water or home-filtered water. If allowed to freeze slowly, the ice will develop clear and clean, with an inch or two cap of cloudiness that can be easily removed later during cutting. This cloudiness develops when minerals and gasses in the water condense and become trapped.
Remove the cooler/ice from the freezer and allow the internal temperature of the ice to warm up. This is called tempering. Rushing the ice and exposing it to warm air too quickly results in thermal shock and the ice may crack. Take time to read the newspaper, enjoy a beer and relax – it will take about 30 to 45 minutes for the ice to transform from clear to frosty to clear once more.
The ice is ready for carving when it is slick and see-through. “The trick is to be patient,” says Gregg. “Don’t be too anxious with it. You are going to lose some [from melting] but it’s more important that you follow the procedure than worry about the one percent of ice that you’ll lose.”
Next, use a handsaw, hammer and chisel (and a good pair of gloves) to break down the large block into smaller pieces. Use only dedicated knives and tools and be sure to sharpen each on a regular basis, as the hard ice will dull sharp edges quickly.
Measure the ice before scoring based on the end size you need. Next, score each side of the ice block with the saw about ¼” deep and then gently hammer the chisel into the grooves. If tempered correctly the block will break cleanly.
Continue the process until you have the desired number of cubes. Use a chisel or paring knife to further hone the cube into shapes fit for cocktail glasses. Gregg recommends the rustic cube for beginners.
For more information on ice-cutting and the science behind it, visit www.alcademics.com.