Brunch is usually not my cup ’o tea but a recent experience at Bistro Alex in Hotel Sorella, CityCentre, made me go from meh to mmmm. The handsome dining room with its unique mesquite ceiling planks, deep banquette seating and windows streaming with dappled sunlight, certainly up the like factor. And then there’s the new make-your-own French Quarter-style Bloody Mary bar – a fine force to be reckoned with – for those discriminating types who like their cocktails, or anything else for that matter, just so.
What grabbed us in the eats department? Simple, yes, but the pancakes were ethereal and buttermilk-moist, served with fruit, pecan butter and warm maple syrup. The fruit (very important to some of us) topping the cakes was not just an afterthought – this was a righteous mound of ultra-fresh blueberries, strawberries and raspberries. Rather waffle? Chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s odd-sounding chicory-coffee duck waffle turned out to be surprisingly stellar. Expect a contrasting mélange of flavors: savory duck confit that has been braised in coffee rests on a crisp and naturally sweet waffle, which is then crowned with a shimmering poached egg. Come hungry.
Speaking of eggs, the eggs Benedict gets a kick here with a creamy Creole-style maltaise sauce (with juice of blood oranges and cayenne) and is served on terrific homemade biscuits instead of the standard English muffins. Homemade flatbread stacked with andouille, mustard greens and shaved Manchego; cheese and grits, and wickedly rich macaroni au gratin beckon those who can’t resist the carb fest. On the lighter side, there’s a wild jumbo shrimp remoulade salad that I could eat every day of the week.
Leave a little room for the gorgeous strawberry shortcake dessert, which fell short in no department. It’s the perfect celebratory spring-time ending. For old time’s sake, you should also try the traditional bananas Foster from the special bananas Foster station. Finish with coffee service delivered in a silver coffee press – a nice touch.
A note about the vibe: Live music with soothing guitar and enriching tones from local jazz vocalist Yvonne Washington hit the right notes. Thankfully, on our visit it wasn’t too loud or distracting.
Although some dinner experiences here have missed the mark, brunch was right on. Isn’t Mother’s Day right around the corner?
BISTRO ALEX, Hotel Sorella CityCentre, 800 W. Sam Houston Pkwy, 713-827-3545