While Houstonians enjoy these last few (and unexpected) cooler days of spring, Kiran’s Restaurant is preparing for the dog days of summer by rolling out its lighter vegetarian tasting menu. The menu, available during dinner service, launched yesterday, and if you stop in tonight or tomorrow evening, 15 percent of the proceeds will benefit Recipe for Success Foundation as part of their VegOut! Challenge.
The Sadya vegetarian tasting menu created by chef/owner Kiran Verma and executive sous chef Dominick Lee features eight courses, each served on a banana leaf (the traditional preparation of Sadya dishes) with a refined touch we’ve come to expect from Kiran’s. The eight-course dinner is $65, and it’s a steal. The restaurant invited us in on Thursday to sample what’s on offer.
The dishes are coursed perfectly. The meal starts with a trifecta of pickled vegetables and cheese (photo above). That’s right, pickled cheese. Each diner will receive an heirloom carrot, okra and a slice of paneer. All three pickled items were soaked in mustard oil for 24 hours before adding vinegar for a tangy and savory bite that’s less sour than a deli-style dill pickle.
Next up is a soup made of tomatoes, tamarind, lentils, cumin, black peppercorn and garlic. The aroma is intoxicating, and the soup has been strained so you are presented with a rich, silky broth that’s not overly filling. Following the warm soup is a cool pop to the palate – a lentil dumpling served inside a crisp pastry shell along with yogurt, mint, pomegranate seeds and tamarind chutney (photo above). Try to eat it in such a way that you get some of each ingredient in your bite: The juicy dumpling is a pleasant surprise as it bursts under your teeth.
The next two courses are for the carb lovers. Besan ka chilla (spiced Indian pancakes) are served with pickled mango and sweet yogurt – a perfect sweet-meets-savory course. This is followed by a dosa rolled into a cone served with sambar, savory coconut chutney and tomato chutney (photo above and at the top). Hiding under the dosa teepee is small mound of spiced potato hash. There are a lot of big flavors present in this little dish.
It’s time for the intermezzo to refresh your palate, and the kitchen has made a watermelon Prosecco granita with cilantro (photo above). We hope to see this granita make its way to the bar menu, too. A scoop of the icy treat topped with more Prosecco during the summer months? Yes, please.
Following the palate cleanser is one of the “meatier” dishes of the tasting – cauliflower carpaccio with roasted red pepper and almond chutney (photo above). The cauliflower is cut ever-so-thin, and the charred red pepper imparts a certain smokiness carnivores might have been missing from a meat course. Following the cauliflower – and the last savory dish of the tasting – is a mustard green saag served with makki ki roti (corn flour flatbread) and a pure jaggery butter (made with the sap of date palm trees). Use the flatbread to scoop up the luscious saag and top with a dollop of the sweet, churned-in-house butter.
The tasting is wrapped up with a parfait-like presentation of lime cream, coconut crumble, berries and raspberry-ginger sorbet (photo above). It’s reminiscent of key lime pie, and we couldn’t think of a more refreshing way to end the meal.
This eight-course tasting is definitely lighter than a tasting menu that includes meat, but trust us, you will be very satisfied.
Kiran’s, 2925 Richmond, 713-960-8472, kiranshouston.com
Dinner Hours: Mon. to Sat. 5-10 pm, Fri. & Sat. 5-11 pm