Fans of chef Michael Kramer, who used to be at Voice, will be happy to find him working back inside The Loop at the new restaurant, Felix 55. Nestled between Italian family eatery D’Amico’s and Baker Street Pub, Felix 55 adds a bold edginess to the rather casual Rice Village restaurant scene with a Z Gallerie-esque modern space that is part restaurant, part club/lounge.
While the décor – a velvety, silver custom banquette contrasting with black and red accents and avante-garde female portraits by local artist Kelley Devine – may project a trendy image, and Kramer’s swell background may have diners expecting more of a fine-dining experience, the restaurant’s rather simple paper menu is that of a neighborhood eatery. It’s comprised mainly of lighter Californian fare with an emphasis on salads, chicken and fish.
I stopped by for lunch last week with friends and was impressed with the fact that the kitchen could deliver without Kramer even in the house. A summer corn soup of charred corn, piquillo peppers and goat cheese was excellent – creamy and sweet but not overly heavy. Our shared starter, a prosciutto flatbread with garlic, Ovaline mozzarella and arugula, was super thin, crisp and tasty, an easy plate to share.
Ceviche, steeped with a citrusy leche de tigre marinade and cilantro, was beautifully executed, the flavors deep. The lime and notes of coconut suggested a love of Thai food. And my entree, a Gulf red snapper with charred corn, grape tomatoes, navy beans and pancetta – the most complex of the dishes we ordered and the most challenging in terms of preparation – ended up being the highlight of the meal: The pan-seared skin of the snapper was perfectly crisped, while the Southwestern-style savoriness of the white beans, pancetta and tomato ragout was just plain delicious.
The vibe of the restaurant lends itself more to an evening or late-night scene, but I’m told that the Sunday brunch is a must-try as well, when the well-appointed patio comes alive with a DJ spinning tunes. During the week, the bar also offers a well-priced happy hour consisting of $5 small plates and call mixed drinks, a great option for an after-work pick-me-up or before a night on the town.
FELIX 55, 5510 Morningside at University, in the Rice Village, 713.590.0610, felix55.com