The new L’Olivier, a French restaurant on lower Westheimer, seems to have had no problem quickly securing a following, as we arrived to a packed house at 8 pm on a Saturday night. Reservations are a must on the busy weekend nights here, although we found ample space at the bar. The bar boasts an impressive counter of solid pewter. It must have been a pain to get through the door when they were remodeling.
We were seated at a table for two at the rear and immediately encountered a problem. It was dark – darker than might be excused as “romantic lightning.” Even if we didn’t need to take photos for this article, we still would have found it too dim for comfort. I like being able to see my food, especially when it’s coming from the kitchen of a notable chef like Olivier Ciesielski, whose resume includes nearly a decade at Tony’s.
I hated asking to be moved to the well-lit bar area, but the staff was tremendously gracious about accommodating us. They truly acted as if my comfort was much more important than their inconvenience, and I dare you to ask for better than that anywhere. Making guests comfortable is the point of good service, no?
After our impromptu relocation, dinner proceeded nicely. The view was pleasant as well. We feasted our eyes on the lovely presentation of fresh shellfish and the fish of the day. The attractive raw bar items were nestled in a big ice bin behind thick clear plastic shielding.
The assortment of spirits and fancy liquors behind the bar was intriguing as well and would lend itself nicely to a cocktail night. Green chartreuse and yellow chartreuse were beckoning to me, but we stuck with wine for the night. Next time.
Onward with the food: For appetizers, we opted for the oeuf Bourguignon (eggs in burgundy sauce) and Paysanne salad, which had roasted chicken livers with delicate lettuces, shallots and vinegar. The egg dish sported big chunks of bacon that I marveled at. They were so big I thought at first they could be chunks of andouille. There was almost no fat, as it had been rendered out through a confit process. Ask for a spoon if they don’t bring you one. You’ll want it to scoop up the bacon along with the soft eggs.
Order the Paysanne salad only if you are a serious liver fan. My husband is and ate them with gusto, while I thought they’d be better with an application of cream, Cognac and a food processor.
For our main courses, we couldn’t pass up the intriguing sautéed shrimp with black risotto, Brussels sprouts and garlic white wine sauce, and the sturdy boeuf Bourguignon with mashed potatoes, mushroom, bacon and caramelized onion is so French it just seemed like a must-try.
The shrimp presentation was striking. The black risotto made a striking backdrop for the starfish design created by putting the tails of the five shrimp tougher in the center of the bowl. The aroma of garlic wafted upwards gloriously. Overall, the dish was perfectly executed, and yet both it and the beef felt lacking somehow. Both seemed a trifle timid or under-flavored. This is a city of big flavors, and it was hard to pick up the lush, rich Burgundy wine flavors I expected in the beef, although I admired the neat square of piped potatoes it rested on. I’d like to try more of this menu and find out what the standouts are.
L’Olivier’s traditional version of floating island is a winning dessert. A tall round of meringue floated placidly in crème anglaise, a light vanilla sauce. It’s probably a faux pas to say that the classic sauce tasted like melted vanilla bean ice cream, but I do mean that in a good way. The apple tart was forgettable, a simple layer of apples on a boring square of puff pastry. If you want to see an apple tart done right, order the version at Aura in Missouri City.
I would not hesitate to take family or business clients to L’Olivier. Service is outstanding and prompt, the environment is attractive, the menu solid, the wine list extensive and pricing exactly where it should be. Really, if the worst sins this place can commit after a few weeks of business is a few dark corners and some stylistic predictability, I’d say it’s doing rather well.
L’OLIVIER, 240 Westheimer bet. Bagby & Taft, 713-360-6313, lolivierhouston.com