Noteworthy Opening: Pinewood Cafe

Pinewood Cafe is the latest incarnation of the new contemporary restaurant space perched alongside McGovern Lake in Hermann Park next door to the zoo. Originally a second location for Little Big’s, that was followed by a temporary arrangement with Becks Prime. Here’s hoping the space has found its culinary soul mate.

Floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto the expansive dog-friendly patio. It’s such a lovely site – so green in spite of the drought and really the kind of place that makes you feel like you might just be somewhere other than Houston. I admit I seldom get to Hermann Park, but considering how much I enjoyed the food at Pinewood Cafe and the park setting, I plan to visit more often in the future.

Chef/co-owner Olivia Blair (she and her husband Sean also own the Maple Leaf Pub in Midtown) is hell-bent on providing a menu comprised of high-quality, fresh and local ingredients at a value-driven price point. Consider the “Build Your Own Grilled Cheese” option for $4, which includes two “add-ons.” You can also add a protein for $1.

I tried a few combinations based on recommendations from the enthusiastic girl working the counter, whom I dubbed my “grilled-cheese guru” by the time I left. My favorite was the Velveeta, tomato and bacon on a Sheila Partin’s sweet sourdough roll, but I certainly didn’t mind the cheddar, pico and avocado on jalapeño cheddar bread, or the Fontina with turkey and avocado on French bread.

There are also wraps ($5), including an excellent “banh mi” wrap with moist chicken, cucumber, Thai basil, cilantro and romaine, lightly dressed. A solid burger made with a hearty eight-oz. patty from Mimm’s Meat Co. came out juicy and cooked to order. We opted to try one with creamy Havarti cheese and sautéed mushrooms on that fresh sourdough roll. Delish and just $6, including housemade pickles.

Salads are notable for the fresh ingredients and housemade dressings, including an herby ranch, tangy balsamic and creamy cilantro. There are fantastic real juice-based smoothies (try the mango). There is also a diverse kid’s menu that ranges from grilled cheese, hot dogs and corndogs to wraps, burgers and chicken tenders; selections are priced $3 to $5 and include a cup of fruit and bottled water. So convenient, right next to the train that runs through the park and everything is packaged so it is easy to take with you to take on the train for (dare I say?) a picnic.

Future plans call for thoughtfully stocked picnic baskets (with boxed wine and a checkered tablecloth), perfect for taking to the hill at Miller Outdoor Theatre. I love this idea.

Nothing is pre-cooked, everything is made fresh daily. Open for lunch and dinner each day and until 10 pm on Friday and Saturday. Go. It will put a smile on your face.


PINEWOOD CAFE, 6104 Hermann Park Dr. next to the zoo, 713-429-5238, www.pinewoodcafe.com

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