Killen’s STQ Takes Home The “W”

At Killen’s STQ, smoke hangs indistinctly in the air, more a delicious, room-filling aroma than a visible haze.

If you didn’t know better, you might assume that’s what the “S” stands for in the three-initialed name of this admirable addition to the Houston’s dining scene. But no. The “S” and the “T,” for that matter, refer to steak. And the concluding “Q,”we’re told, is a tip of the hat to “BBQ.” But if you were hoping to order brisket or spare ribs with potato salad and slaw on the side, I’m afraid you’d be SOL at STQ.

This is certainly not a barbecue restaurant or even a steakhouse, though STQ’s proprietor and culinary master Ronnie Killen does operate admirable versions of each in Pearland. Instead, this Tanglewood outpost incorporates elements of both – high-end steaks do anchor the menu, and barbecue techniques influence many of the dishes – yet provides Killen an opportunity to stretch his arms a bit and perform outside the conventions of his genre-based establishments (which also includes a burger joint). In a way, STQ is Ronnie Killen’s Playhouse.

And, oh, what fun he – and we fortunate diners – are having!

Not too surprisingly, the most impressive examples of this unfettered approach show up at the top of the menu, appetizers that are as innovative as they are delectable. A single, savory tamal ($12) filled with minced short rib then smothered in brisket-chunked chili and sprinkled with creamy cotija cheese was almost too good, running the risk of making whatever followed it pale considerably by comparison. It’s served on a traditional corn shuck and, after the tamal itself had been devoured, I found myself pondering ways to slurp up what remained on that fibrous covering in a semi-civilized manner. None came to mind, alas. (Mind you, I’m not saying I didn’t do it – it just wasn’t civilized, semi- or otherwise.)

That tamal (the menu seems to prefer the Tex-Mexy spelling “tamale,” by the way) is one of a half dozen or so must-try dishes at STQ – and that’s not including any of the eight state-of-the-art steaks, the excellence of which almost goes without saying. Those luscious steaks, corn-fed American and Japanese Wagyu, range from $40 to $85, with some specials peaking at $20 an ounce.
Along with that memorable tamal, the jumbo lump crabcake ($18) is terrific, taking an old-school approach with a denser and more “deviled” version than what’s generally around these days. An order of grilled octopus ($14), balancing its smoky-salty base taste against the sweet-sour of citrus and fennel, is splendid and probably my favorite dish on the menu. It’s a petite serving, but the flavors are so focused and intense that small is all you can handle.

There’s also a grilled red snapper ($30) that is a tribute to simple but superb cooking skills, coming off the heat at just the right moment and dressed in a modest lemon butter sauce with a few crawfish to keep it company.

While I didn’t have a chance to try to the intriguing pork belly and black-eyed pea gumbo ($10) myself, it deserves to go on the list based on what I observed. At a rollicking table next to ours, one diner asked to meet the cook who’d prepared the bowl of gumbo he’d just finished. When a kitchen staffer was brought forth, the diner stood up, gave him a hug and declared, “That was the best thing I have ever eaten!” (If this was staged and is recreated nightly, please don’t tell me; my battle with cynicism is already faring poorly.)

For pure, you-won’t-believe-this culinary chutzpah, the winner at STQ has to be an order of …bread pudding. Only this bread pudding is so far over the top it makes Chocolate Decadence blush.

Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to present Bacon Tres Leches Bread Pudding ($9, photo above).

Basic bread pudding is already a pretty rich undertaking, what with eggs and butter and sugar and, well, bread. But then you’re adding candied bacon to it? And drizzling high-octane tres leches sauce over it?

If I’m not mistaken, there are even bits of pecan pralines mixed in. Well, of course it’s delicious, but is that even legal? Doesn’t it have to come with a warning from the U.S. Surgeon General? Shouldn’t the server be required to stand by with a defibrillator while it’s being eaten? Lest anyone be too surprised by this outré concoction, I note that chef Killen also offers a crème brûlée bread pudding at his steakhouse. Apparently, no bread pudding is inviolate when he gets into the kitchen.

STQ is serving this dazzling array of sizzling steaks and clever appetizers in a fairly smallish dining room with raw wood walls and subdued lighting as the principal decorating motif, a carryover from its previous incarnation as Randy Rucker’s ambitious but short-lived Bramble. The rustic tone has been dialed down somewhat. Bramble even had a few stuffed animals lurking about the premises, and they have been banished.

Softening and upscaling that bare bones décor, SQT opts for fancy Italian Frette linens and showy French Laguiole steak knives with their distinctive switchblade look. It’s an effective mix of the high and low aesthetic, evoking an appealing cross between a country roadhouse and a Continental chalet.

Technically speaking, there is an “open kitchen,” though it may be too open for its own good, offering a view not only of the impressive culinary preparation but also the storage shelves and cleaning supplies in the rear. That’s a quibble and one that’s more than offset by STQ’s decision to space its tables at a comfortable distance from each other. Given the relatively undersized dimensions of the dining room, the temptation to squeeze in a few more two-tops for additional revenue must have been considerable. Kudos for not giving in to it.

Clearly, Ronnie Killen has not cut any corners at STQ and takes the high road whenever possible. The serving staff seems well-trained – accommodating and knowledgeable without being overbearing – and the kitchen properly staffed to meet the considerable demands being placed on it. (STQ has been abundantly booked almost every night since its opening in late December.)

So, is everything A-OK at STQ? Not quite. A chicken-fried ribeye ($28) shed its crusty shell too readily – a flaw shared with the colossal onion rings ($8). A double-thick, long-boned pork chop ($42) was beautiful to behold though fairly dry to eat, crying out for sauce or preserves on the side. Side orders – which include jalapeño cheese grits, asparagus and creamed corn – can be problematic in their “family style” portions that are good for table-sharing but just too much for a single diner.

And, as you would expect, STQ is costly. Figure $100 a person, maybe $150 with prime steaks, although that’s not a fault as much as an inevitability for an undertaking like this.

STQ has staked out an interesting niche, perched between the high-powered steakhouses that abound in this city and the more intimate, foodie-oriented establishments like Underbelly, Roost and Pax Americana. And its success is the real deal, not just smoke and mirrors. Well, maybe smoke. Lots and lots of smoke.

This article originally appeared in the Spring 2017 issue of My Table magazine. To find My Table magazine on a newsstand near you, click here. 

Killen’s STQ, 2231 S. Voss just south of Del Monte TELEPHONE 713-586-0223 CUISINE Wood-fired meat CREDIT CARDS All major HOURS Open 5-9 pm Mon.-Thu., 5-10 pm Fri.-Sat. Closed Sun. RESERVATIONS Recommended NOISE LEVEL Can be loud