Chef Philippe Verpiand and his wife Monica Bui, who have Étoile Cuisine et Bar in Uptown Park, officially unveil their new Brasserie du Parc today, Monday, January 30, just in time for Super Bowl LI and 140,000 visitors descending on Houston. My Table was invited to the media preview this weekend, and we were happy to check out the new downtown spot in One Park Place overlooking Discovery Green.
If you are familiar with Étoile, you may notice that this second concept is notably more urban chic with several dining areas and options, and the menu is a little less expensive. After all, in France a brasserie is an unpretentious restaurant or tavern serving drinks (beer, wine, cocktails) and simple hearty food. The fare and environs here are definitely not simple, but it is less conventional than Étoile, a large one-room, one-level restaurant.
The space is cleverly divided into several areas including a main dining room with white tablecloths and leather chairs in semi-private dining nooks, a spacious window-wrapped covered terrace with rattan bistro chairs and sliding doors, a pint-sized upstairs wine room and an inviting wrap-around copper-clad bar at the entrance with several cocktail tables. Taking cues from traditional Paris brasseries, Bui designed the dining rooms and bar in orange, yellow and ochre hues with colorful French posters, curvy brass lamps, brass-top tables and Edison bulb light fixtures.
The menu features the classic French comfort food dishes that Verpiand, a native of Provence, grew up enjoying. Duck confit, steak frites (photo at top), beef tartare and foie gras au torchon are all being dished out by the chef, who is one of only five Master Chefs of France working in Texas. A favorite dish of Verpiand’s is the tartiflette, a gooey, rib-sticking Alpine dish of shaved potatoes, bacon and onions with reblochon cheese.
Photo by Mauricio Hernandez
At dinner, expect more seafood, much of which is being sourced locally. Think sole meuniere, moules frites with Gulf shrimp and crab, Gulf snapper enriched with saffron cream and buttery fingerling potatoes and crevettes du Golfe (shrimp cocktail with a spicy remoulade-type sauce over smashed avocado, photo above). Head’s up beef lovers: The Les Steaks section of the menu highlights four steak frites ranging from filet mignon to an 8-ounce bison ribeye served with pommes frites and spring salad. The piece de résistance: For the topping, choose from béarnaise, bordelaise, au poivre or maître d’hotel butter.
Photo by Mauricio Hernandez
But the menu is not all heavy. Salads are a highlight – beautifully composed with bright flavors and super-fresh ingredients. Try the salade de chevre (photo above) with a warm goat cheese crouton, peppered honey, green apple and spring mix; the beet with arugula and burrata; or salade Cesar (photo below) with whole romaine leaves, anchovies, perfect slender croutons and creamy Caesar dressing.
Photo by Mauricio Hernandez
Beverage director Kimberly Paul from Étoile has designed some cocktail beauties, including the Reversed Blackberry Martini with gin, pink peppercorn and vermouth, and the dazzling Bonny Prince Dram with Monkey Shoulder Scotch Whiskey poured over Earl Grey tea and a honey ice ball. There are also larger-format shared cocktails like the Rhum Petit Punch with spiced syrup, lime and raspberries. It’s fun to sit at the bar and watch the mixologists whip these up.
Photo by Taylor Byrne Dodge
And what would a French eatery be without crepes? Verpiand and chef de cuisine Romain Mauger are creating thin, ethereal pancakes and dispensing them at Creperie du Parc, a handy take-out window of the brasserie facing McKinney Street. There are savory combos like ham and Gruyere, but also five sweet versions ranging from caramelized apple to Nutella and a flambéed choice served tableside with Grand Marnier. Mas oui!
Brasserie du Parc, 1440 Lamar near Austin, 832-879-2802
Hours: Mon. through Thurs. 11 am to 10 pm; Fri. and Sat. 11 am to 11 pm; Sun. 11 am to 9 pm