In late August, the preternaturally popular Tony’s Mexican restaurant on Ella Blvd. got a neighbor across the street also serving Mexican food, El Gran Malo (“The Big Bad”). Its owners intend for it to be primarily a bar, but the food has been a draw during the first weeks. El Gran Malo is an interesting place: a neo-dive bar that is more friendly than ironic with appealing food and serious – but not overly serious – cocktails. You won’t have to wait 20 minutes for one.
Well, you might, as its newness coupled with larger-than-anticipated crowds has caused some delays. Service was spotty on a second visit. Our waitress was clueless and slow, but quite attractive. That and the affable owners working the room soliciting feedback made up for the deficits.
Greg Lowry, the recent executive chef of Voice en route to the soon-to-open Triniti, designed the Mexican-themed menu. The short list of small plates is rather tempting, and most of it worked during a couple visits. The flavors were generally fresher and more vibrant than typical Mexican or Tex-Mex restaurant dishes, and ingredients often stood out in a dish. It is not taqueria fare, but it was not exactly Hugo’s, either. There are tacos with corn tortillas available with a half-dozen choices for fillings including pork belly and chicken tinga, quesadillas, excellent empanadas, tamales (well, a tamal), ceviche, a Caesar salad and Tex-Mex-style queso.
The dozen or so specialty cocktails should be an attraction. Many are rather unusual, but seem well suited to Houston. A number feature tequila infusions. All are made with fresh ingredients in lieu of items like triple sec. My favorite concoction has been a unique one with pecan and cayenne pepper along with lime juice and tequila. It tasted of Southeast Texas (and I don’t mean the refineries, either). The house margarita made with fresh lime and lemon juices was easy to consume … too easy. El Gran Malo also serves a couple dozen Texas and Mexican beers, including several on tap, a few wines and over 50 well-chosen tequilas and mezcals.
The dark, casual spot is hip, but inviting. Adding to the décor is a small patio and a huge, intentionally cheeky and fun Mexican-style mural. A recent crowd featured ages ranging from the mid-20s to late-50s. It’s far more Heights than Washington Avenue. Maybe not the handful of pluperfect, if possibly enhanced, beauties, but, thankfully, they, too, seemed right at home.
EL GRAN MALO, 2307 Ella Blvd. at 23rd, 832-767-3405, elgranmalo.com. Open daily 4 pm to 2 am.