Artisans opened very quietly last week on February 8. We visited on only the fourth day of service. There are some minor kinks to be worked out, but the shape and the form of this serious French restaurant is obvious. Artisans is a place that will be well suited for conservative downtown corporate types in search of a great business lunch location. Well-heeled Midtown residents will appreciate having a classy dinner spot in the area.
When I walked in, I felt like I was walking into an upscale Manhattan bistro. The vast, open kitchen is striking and you can see everything going on in there. In fact, there are front row seats to the show available at the dining counter. Several chairs are placed along the length of the kitchen.
The architecture and design of Artisans are outstanding. The big glass windows frame the interior scene so attractively that passersby will want to come inside. The walls have been built out to form curves instead of angles. The rustic iron handles that run up and down the doors were all custom made. Hardwood features are everywhere, from the blocky wall design in the private dining room to the dozens of cabinets that run above the kitchen and the bar area.
On the Saturday night we visited, Artisans was only offering the $65 prix-fixe five-course Valentine’s menu. The entrees on the à la carte menu start at $28 for a chicken and lobster dish with Armoricaine sauce, parmesan risotto and asparagus. The $25 three-course prix-fixe lunch is a comparative bargain, so if you have the availability, it’s the best way to initially check Artisans out.
Our first course was an oyster mignonette accompanied by a very pleasing vichyssoise. The oyster had been removed from the shell and placed in a small shell-like dish with a stubby handle. This made it very easy to consume. I simply picked up the handle and tilted the oyster into my mouth, just as I would do if it were still in the shell. The oyster was just the right size and pleasing, but I did not pick up any of the briny flavors that can make raw oysters such a pleasing experience.
The vichyssoise was remarkably creamy. A tiny cup was all that was needed of this smooth, rich concoction.
Next up was my favorite savory course: lobster ravioli in cognac sauce. My understanding is the sauce was made from the same base that Artisans uses for its lobster bisque. A surprising amount of cayenne heat came from this sauce. It seemed Cajun-influenced, and we loved it.
After that, we hit a few bumps in the road with the mains. First was a hunk of pistachio-crusted sea bass filet. I know many people like the meaty texture, and it was perfectly cooked. I just find it a boring fish, and it seems almost trite to serve it these days. It’s the standard steakhouse fish, and there’s just nothing interesting about it.
A high note accompanied this low note: a chanterelle mushroom risotto that was so full of life and flavor that I would have gladly taken a cereal bowl’s worth. Keep the fish; give me more of this. A few of the earthy chanterelles were left whole, and the firm texture was wonderful alongside the creamy, brothy rice.
The steak au poivre vert was more enjoyable than the fish but surprisingly overseasoned. The green peppercorns used were most welcome, but the generous coating, along with an overdose of salt, would be too much for most palates and overwhelmed the otherwise perfect filet.
Again, the side dish saved the course. I have rarely had haricots verts so perfectly cooked. I would not have wanted them one bit firmer or a tad softer. It says something about the skill of the chef when green beans get me excited. A few wax beans broke up any potential monotony. My husband was a big fan of the intensified flavors and roasted edges of the accompanying tomato, while I loved the sweet-as-candy marinated cipollini onion.
After the main courses, we were on an upward plane again. One of the best things about French dining is the cheese course. There is something about it that makes me feel like I’m a kid again. It’s like the reward for eating your dinner; now you get to have a treat.
I think the Houston Dairymaids had their hand in this, as I’m pretty sure I recognized the leaf-wrapped Hoja Santa goat cheese, as well as the Point Reyes blue. The third hunk was unidentifiable, even by our server. (Give him a break, it was only the fourth night open, and he was otherwise perfect.) A gelée alongside was the perfect essence of apricot, and the baby mache salad rounded out the deal. I could have done without the piece of fruits baklava, the pastry wrapper of which had no browning at all and didn’t hold a candle to the crunchy goodness of Greek-style pastry.
Finally came dessert. “This is your course,” our waiter teased. “This one is for the ladies.” “Oh?” I said. “Then it must have chocolate.” “It does!” he said, and he wasn’t kidding.
The dessert course was not entirely flawless, but it came close. Five little treats were provided, which was an achievement itself. Some pastry chef is working real hard at Artisans.
The “flourless chocolate fudge” was a flop. The flavor was nice, but the texture was gluey. I would have preferred either fudge or cake, but not this mutation.
Much more successful were the candied kumquats with their citrine tang. The cappuccino crème brûlée was served on a large spoon, and it had so much coffee flavor that I didn’t feel a need to call for a cup alongside. Sugar almond tuiles were so delicate they shattered in the nicest way. The superstar on the plate was a slice of opera cake. A perfectly smooth layer of dark chocolate-topped layers of cake and creamy filling. It had perfect balance and flavor. I would happily pick up a whole opera cake from Artisans for a holiday celebration if they offered it.
Artisans is lovely and classy, but not stuffy or pretentious. It’s from chef Jacques Fox and his friends, brothers David and Sylvain Denis, who have Le Mistral on the West Side. It’s a perfect place for a nice business lunch, a romantic date or to bring your parents. It’s not doing groundbreaking food, but if that’s not what you’re looking for, you might put this one on your list of places to try.
ARTISANS, 3201 Louisiana just off Elgin, 713-529-9111, artisansrestaurant.com