One of our favorite chef/restaurateurs is, finally, back in the kitchen. Last April Kiran Verma had to abandon her elegant Kiran’s at 4100 Westheimer when the landlord decided to redevelop the tract of land it sat on. The new incarnation took longer than expected — doesn’t it always? — but Kiran’s has finally re-opened in a space in Midway Companies’ brand-new development called Kirby Grove.
We recently stopped in for lunch as Verma’s guests to sample the new menu and take a look around. The interior is lighter — less dark wood and formality — than at the previous location and features rich red and gold touches, plush couches and a bar area with a communal table. It’s both opulent and cozy at the same time. And the menu offers a similar combination of comfort and sophistication with both Indian street foods and high-end dishes sharing the menu.
Our meal was executed with thoughtfulness and obvious love. (Verma is the kind of restaurant owner who frequently bounces out of the kitchen to greet guests with a warm handshake or a kiss.) It kicked off with a round of papadums ($6, photo above) – thin, cracker-like flatbreads made with chickpea or lentil flour – and a selection of chutneys: tomato-garlic, sweet tamarind, mango and mint.
Then came pani poori puffs ($8, photo below) stuffed with chickpeas, potato and pomegranate seeds. The server waited until we were ready and then poured a tiny amount of the mint-tamarind water into each fragile puff. We happily followed instructions to pop the entire thing into our mouth to experience the explosion of textures and flavors. Has a common Indian street food ever had a more gold-plated presentation? Don’t forget to cleanse your palate with the organic baby romaine leaves on which the puffs nest.
Verma prepares fresh juice combos every day. For our meal she selected a dark purple blend of beet, cranberry and orange juices ($7), served in elegant stemware, to pair with a beet-centric salad of pistachio-crusted goat cheese, poached pear and baby greens with kumquat vinaigrette ($14). As we wiped at the last bits of goat cheese, our server swooped in with a series of entrees.
In between bites of tandoori rumali roti lamb wraps ($18, photo above), we spooned up shrimp and scallops coated in spicy peanut coconut curry ($34, photo above). To contrast with the spice, a Cornish hen glistening with a tamarind-honey glaze rounded off the savory aspect of the meal ($28, photo below).
Verma pulled out all the stops with a trio of desserts that began with a firm panna cotta surrounded by edible flowers, teeny-tiny pistachio macarons and little peaks of vanilla bean whipped cream (photo below). There were also a bright mango mousse and an intriguing bowl of paneer cheese drenched in sweet cream and dusted with edible silver. The cool dairy-oriented desserts were a nice way to restore a palate that had been opened up with Indian spice, and they ended the meal with a flourish.
Two more notes: Shepard Ross of Pax Americana has consulted on Kiran’s wine list, so don’t be surprised to see some new ideas among the restaurant’s traditional heavyhitters. And, starting this week, Kiran’s serves afternoon tea Fridays and Saturdays at 3 pm, making this a restaurant ideal for family gatherings or date nights, girls’ night out or business meetings. Treat yourself to a meal of gorgeous Indian cuisine and welcome Kiran back into the kitchen.
Kiran’s, 2925 Richmond Ave. bet. Kirby & Buffalo Speedway, 713-960-8472, kiranshouston.com
Hours: Lunch, Mon. to Fri. 11 am to 2 pm; Dinner, Mon. to Thurs. 5 to 10 pm, Fri. and Sat. 5 to 11 pm