If you’re in the Cypress area prowling for food and a good time, stop at the blue bathtub marking Love Shack, a fresh new burger joint that’s slightly off the beaten track. You know you’re getting close when the strip malls and chain restaurants disappear, and don’t be surprised if you accidentally pass it up the first time and have to turn around. But as soon as you’ve parked your car in the dirt and grass lot, it becomes apparent that this shack really is full of love.
Located in a renovated (and once-abandoned) house, this joint feels more like a backyard party than a restaurant, complete with a tree-shaded patio, wooden picnic tables, a sand pile for the kids and even a friendly “shack cat” who visits the tables. Best of all: Some seriously good food is being served up at the Love Shack.
When I visited the Shack, it wasn’t crowded at all and my party of four got a table immediately. However, that was a Tuesday night. The place fills up pretty quickly on weekends.
The bar is still somewhat limited, but the beer selection is getting steadily better, and the restaurant now takes credit cards. (Good news for those who had to make a mad dash to the ATM in the past.) Our waitress was happy to offer up her suggestions and favorites as we perused the menu. We started with an order of “Southern Rock,” hand-cut fries topped with brisket, bacon and cheese. Quick to get to our table and served on a pizza platter, this heaping pile o’ fries was sinfully good, and the brisket definitely stole the show.
All of the sides, also including Last Kiss fries (topped with garlic and bacon) and Signature O-Strings, serve two to four people, and at only three or four dollars each, they’re a cheap and delicious addition to a meal.
The main event, however, is the burgers. And with names like the “Dirty Bird Next Door” and the “Grease and Weasel,” you know these aren’t your typical sandwiches. Grease and Weasel features a beef patty, slab of bacon, Tilamook cheddar and local lettuce and tomatoes, all sandwiched between a glazed donut.
I passed on that one and opted instead for the “5 Napkins,” a beef patty with lettuce, tomato, Tilamook, bacon and a fried egg on top. Playfully called the “breakfast burger” by my dining companions, this was absolutely delicious, and the juicy burger combined with the perfectly cooked sunny-side-up egg really did require five-plus napkins. Among the other entrees ordered was the Cooter Jack, a scrumptious burger topped with jack cheese, barbecue sauce, chipotle mayo and a tower of onion strings, and the Billy Bob Nguyen, which features Asian fusion brisket and onions, the whole thing “crunchified with Cheetos.” Despite my skepticism, every combination worked beautifully, adding something new to every juicy, artery-clogging bite.
With such good burgers, it should come as no surprise that this isn’t Joe Duong’s first foray into the restaurant business. He has launched other restaurants in Northwest Houston, including Rockwell’s Tavern, another burger joint not far from the Shack. And while the Love Shack may still be a work in progress – it is undergoing construction of an outdoor kitchen, and indoor seating is MIA – this little spot is one to keep your eye on. If you’re anything like me, you’ll leave with the B-52’s in your head, good food in your stomach and a smile on your face.
THE LOVE SHACK, 16602 Cypress-Rosehill Rd., 281-256-1575