“Wine is the human race’s most refined beverage,” said American celeb-chef and cookbook author Rick Bayless, a Mexican food guru who serves great wine pairings at his legendary Mexican restaurants in Chicago. But in Houston, more often than not, we reach for a cold beer. Sure, that hits the spot, but the challenge of pairing Mexican food with wine is delicious fun. Why just eat your taco, when you can rock your taco?
According to local wine experts, there are a few basic wine pairing tips to keep in mind when sipping with Mexico’s often piquant and robust cuisine:
— Look for crisp acidic, palate-cleansing white wines with some backbone like Spanish Rioja, Albarino, Riesling or New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, which make tomatillo sauce, spicy chicken and Mexican seafood sing.
— Avoid tannic or high-alcohol wines like big California Cabernets or overly oaked Chardonnay, which only increase the spice-heat level of the food and clash with chiles and intense spices.
— Seek plush, jammy red wines like Zinfandel or those with complex layers of flavor: smoke, spice and bright fruit that play nice with meat dishes and tomato sauces. Supple Shirazes or low-alcohol Syrah, Pinot Noir, Grenache or fruity Beaujolais enhance even spicy dishes.
From guac to mole, there’s a vino for every dish. We sought the advice of several of Houston’s most informed wine experts – all of them working in Mexican restaurants. Here are some of their wine-and-food suggestions:
GUACAMOLE
Although master sommelier-turned-television personality Andrea Immer Robinson swears by lightly oaked California Chardonnay with guacamole, at Hugo’s, it’s wine of a different color. Sommelier and beverage director Sean Beck says, “A great match is a bone dry rosé from Provence. Its extra weight is a nice contrast to the silky texture of the guacamole, and the hints of floral, red fruits and spice complement the buttery avocado flavor.”
At Picos, beverage director Monica Richards reaches for Blindfold by The Prisoner Wine Company, California. She likes this heady white blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussane, Grenache Blanc and Marsanne “for its citrus and hazelnut notes and velvety finish.” It also works with Picos’ house tomatillo salsa, which is addictively spicy. Expect to be impressed with the wine stemware at Picos.
MEXICAN SEAFOOD
Huachinango a la Veracruzana (photo above) at Picos:
With Gulf red snapper in salsa Veracruzana (tomatoes, green olives, capers and chiles gueros), Richards suggests you sip the elegant, bone-dry Jolie Folle Rosé from France with its slightly spicy Grenache and juicy Cinsault grapes. It complements the chiles, tomato broth and capers with its palate-cleansing strawberry, watermelon and dried herb notes and whiffs of white pepper.
Shrimp a Las Brazas at Anejo:
“Sip it with Möet Imperial Brut,” says Darrin Baumunk, wine buyer and operating partner of Lasco Enterprises, and Curtis Bagnoli, beverage manager. “The bright acid of the Champagne will cleave through the rich, fat content of the flavorful bacon. That slight brininess of the shrimp will play nicely with the mineral texture and natural mousse of the Champagne.”
Ceviche Tradicional with lime-cured red snapper at Hugo’s:
“Works exceptionally well with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc like Craggy Range Te Muna Road,” says Beck. “The green flavors (lime, cilantro, olives, jalapeños) are a natural fit and contrast nicely to the floral notes and juicy tropical fruit of the wine.”
MOLE
Venison mole enchiladas with queso poblanos at Anejo:
Pair with Mira Bilia Veronese Rosso, advise Baumunk and Bagnoli. “It’s a style similar to
Duck in mole poblano at Hugo’s:
“When pairing with mole poblano, the mole of moles, you need a wine with texture so it won’t get lost,” says Beck. “The decadent Hewitson Baby Bush Mourvèdre (at right) is perfect. It’s thick, chewy and filled with brambly berry fruit, bittersweet chocolate, herb and savory spice that complement the sauce while playing off the slightly gamey duck flavor.”
TAMALES
Oaxaquenos pork tamales steamed in banana leaves at Picos:
Sip with Kung Fu Girl Riesling, advises Richards. “The tart sweetness of the wine with its kefir lime, peach and apricot notes, balances the ancho spice from the savory pork filling and leaves a refreshing finish.”
TAQUITOS & TACOS
Taquitos tronadores de carnitas (photo above) with avocado-tomatillo salsa and crema fresca at Caracol:
“Pig and Riesling are a match made in heaven,” says Beck, who also directs the beverage program at Caracol, Hugo’s sister restaurant. “With this dish, I love the Schloss Johannisberg Gelblach Spatlese Riesling, perfectly dry and low alcohol. The minerality of the Riesling makes the masa tortilla pop, while its rich texture and gorgeous fruit balance with the pork. It’s also got the necessary acid to handle the tartness of the crema and fresh tomatillos.”
Brisket tacos with tomato salsa at Caracol:
This dish works fine with a hearty Malbec, notes Beck. “However, if you really want to accentuate the beef flavors, go for a thick, earthy and dark fruit version of Spain’s Tempranillo grape from the Ribera del Duero. The Emilio Moro or the Villacreces Pruno both over-deliver for the money.”
Tacos de pescado baja (crispy fish tacos, Napa cabbage, chipotle-mayo) at Caracol:
“The understated sophistication of the fish taco merits the delicate bubbles and deep flavors of exceptional Champagne like Pierre Peters. The minerality and acid of the wine is a grander condiment to this dish than a squeeze of lime will ever be,” observes Beck. “Most people grab a beer, but if you’re drinking a carbonated beverage, why not have the best in the class?”
GRILLED FAJITAS
Baumunk and Bagnoli choose California Cabernet Inglenook Cask Blend. “Always a favorite in Texas with entrées, this wine has a broad range of flavor profiles. The rich, dark fruit and touches of cedar and spice play nicely with the mesquite-smoked meat from the Aztec wood grill. Even the slightly caramelized flavors of the bell peppers and onions won’t be over shadowed by Inglenook – it’s a table pleaser.”
At Picos, Richards likes the juicy, smooth Saldo Zinfandel from The Prisoner Wine Company (at right) with the mixed fajitas. “I pick up chocolate, raspberry and a touch of spice from the wine, which complements the campfire appeal of the grilled meats, onions, and peppers.”