Driving through the historic Sixth Ward, our eyes have often been distracted by an abandoned red brick building. It was on the north side of Washington Avenue where Washington meets Sabine Street. As of a few weeks ago it is abandoned no longer.
A new steakhouse called B&B Butchers & Restaurant has taken the site once known, long ago, as the Dittman Bakery. It’s a two-story steakhouse, raw bar, boutique butcher shop and deli all in one package.
The historic building, dating back to 1907, flaunts its exposed brick and open ceilings, giving the restaurant a pleasant old-fashioned industrial look. But don’t be fooled by the factory appeal of B&B Butchers. Its white tablecloths, wine list and ambitious (and somewhat pricy) menu promise an upscale experience.
Before we get to the food, though, a few more words about the building itself. We love that owner Benjamin Berg spent the money and time to give respect to this piece of Houston history. We have so very little of this kind of local preservation; it’s thrilling to see the building restored and reused.
As guests of the restaurant, we were shown around the second level of the building where there is more dining capacity (available for private events) along with a large rooftop patio that provides an iconic view of downtown Houston. Downstairs and adjacent to the actual restaurant is the butcher shop where B&B Butchers makes and cures its charcuterie and dry-ages hunks of meat under the direction of butcher (and ex-New Yorker) Ken Laszlo. Across the front of the building streetside is the deli where you can order sandwiches and soup to eat in or take with you. Enter the restaurant proper through the deli or through the main door on the east side of the building.
Our sampling of the menu began with a jumbo lump crab cake ($19), the B&B steak house salad ($21, photo above), crab Louie ($24, photo below) and “carpetbagger on the half-shell” ($16, four to an order).
You may wonder, as we did, what a carpetbagger is. A thick piece of house-cured bacon, a bite of rare steak and a deep-fried oyster are skewered together and topped with a creamy ranch-like sauce and shot of sriracha. It is served in a dish that resembles an oyster shell. These are the appetizer version, and there is also an entrée form of carpetbagger, too.
If you prefer a starter that doesn’t include three different animals in one bite, the crab Louie is a refreshing option, strategically arranging jumbo lump crab with hearts of palm, steamed asparagus, tiny grape tomatoes, boiled eggs, caper berries, avocado and green onion jazzed up with a drizzle of not-too-tart dressing.
Thumbs up all round for the spiced lamb burger ($17, photo above) served on a potato flour bun with tabouli, pepperjack cheese and harissa ketchup, as well as steak frites ($29, photo below) made with skirt steak and pan-seared salmon ($27).
The butcher shop is open seven days a week and may be reserved as a private dining room. There are plans in the works for cigar service in the future. Note: If you are still up in the air as to Fourth of July plans, the restaurant is taking reservations for their rooftop patio.
B&B Butchers & Restaurant, 1814 Washington Ave. at Sabine, 713-862-1814, bbbutchers.com