When the Food Network is mentioned in conversation, chances are good it might sound something like this: “Can you believe Bobby lost that chile relleno throwdown?” or “I am going to try cooking Ina’s lemon-roasted chicken tonight.” But if you were to mention the Food Network to former New York Times reporter Allen Salkin, author of a new book on that very subject, the conversation might not follow that exact recipe.

In fact Salkin has never written a recipe, considers himself only a “decent” cook and grew up eating biscuits made from a mix. But his recently published book From Scratch: Inside The Food Network goes deep into that food-centric television channel.

Salkin’s interest with Food Network goes beyond wanting to learn the technique required to properly bake a soufflé. Salkin wanted to know the history of the network and how it evolved into the multi-million dollar entity that it is now.

“I am not really a normal food writer. I am an investigative reporter who is interested in the culture of food media,” Salkin explains. But to be effective Salkin opened the recipe books and picked up the fork, slowly turning into what we like to call a foodie. “I have become one because in order to write about these people, I needed to meet them at their own level.”

Salkin set out to explore and examine how the Food Network came to be and how chefs transitioned from faceless cooks behind the swinging kitchen door to millionaire TV personalities. Why, he wondered, are fans willing to pay such high ticket prices to attend a food and wine event?

My Table chatted briefly with Salkin in advance of his appearance on Monday (November 11) at the Jewish Book & Arts Fair. He likened his new book, his labor of love, to “giving birth to a sideways watermelon.”
How were you introduced to the food industry? Well, I was a New York Times reporter sent down to cover the South Beach Wine & Food Festival in 2008. When I was there, I was absolutely amazed to see that the chefs had talent agents and cameras around them. I was going to be the man who figured out how this world came to be.

Why write a book about Food Network? In the house I grew up in, all we had was Bisquick. We didn’t even have flour, so I didn’t know you could make things from scratch. In doing my research, Food Network is the most responsible entity for the wave of foodies over the last 20 years. Coming from nothing to a world in which every single town has 50 hot spots – it really is because of the Food Network.

While writing this book, how many of the Food Network stars did you come in contact with? Did any of them surprise you? I interviewed most of them, and they all surprised me in some way. Rachel Ray is a fiercely hard worker. Another is Bobby Flay. He is the ultimate survivor with his New York street smarts.

When you are not writing and reporting, what can someone find you doing? Throwing a Lou Reed appreciation party where we listen to old records and eat some homemade candy.

As a journalist, you have reported on many topics. What have you enjoyed writing about the most? I have a policy that I will always cover a story that takes me to a beach or gets me a great meal.

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If you want to hear more from Allen Salkin, he will be speaking at Houston’s 41st Annual Jewish Book & Arts Fair on Monday, November 11.