Drew’s Pastry Place, operated by pastry chef Andrew “Drew” Rogers, was recommended to me by Michael O’Connor. Michael is the sous chef at downtown’s Vic & Anthony’s these days, so his recommendations carry some weight. Michael and Drew used to cook together at Houston Country Club.

Drew’s is in a low-key but attractive strip center near Winestyles. The first thing I did when I walked into Drew’s was ogle the two large pastry cases like a six-year-old at a candy store, as well as the case full of colorful gelato from local purveyor Nundini. When I finally pried myself away, I ordered a meatball pizza, and I am so glad I did. I suppose once one masters Italian pastry, making a fine pizza crust is no big deal.

The meatballs are sliced to about a quarter-inch thick and laid on top of the pizza just as pepperoni would be. The slices walk a fine line between crumbly and firm and have enough fennel and red pepper to make them interesting. Cheese, pepperoni, sliced Italian sausage and margherita pizzas are available as well, but the meatball is the one I come back to over and over again.

I recommend requesting a crispy crust. It’s just not as good otherwise. Warning: Don’t expect to take this pizza to go and have it be the same once you get to your destination. The crust is so delicate that being enclosed in a steamy box makes it turn soft again.

Drew’s mom helps him run the place, which is in far Northwest Houston off of Louetta. “Many of the recipes I make are hers,” Drew told me. His parents moved their kids and Italian traditions to Houston from New Jersey when he graduated high school.

Drew’s Pastry Place is testament that you can put a high-quality restaurant and pastry shop in “the Northwest Territories” and it really can do just fine. Every time I come in, there are plenty of customers. They’re sitting in the cozy nook near a fully stocked bookcase or sitting with friends chatting over slices of cake and coffee.

“See these bagels? We get them flash frozen from New York,” he said proudly. “Cannoli shells are brought in from New Jersey.” Drew’s cannoli filling recipe is a secret, though. Not even his mom knows it. Drew might have an Italian background, but he has French training as well, as he graduated from Culinary Institute Le Nôtre in 2005.

The pignoli (pine nut) cookies here are my favorite. There’s a distinct almond flavor in the dough. It tastes like marzipan, and there are toasted pine nuts all over the top of the delicate cookies. You can get a pound of these for $14.95 – pine nuts are expensive – but most of the other cookies are $9.95 a pound.

There are also sandwich cookies covered in chocolate and multicolored sprinkles. They look delightful on a party tray, which I have ordered for office meetings on many occasions. The trays are garnished with a hefty dose of Jordan almonds. The cakes and pies are not to be taken lightly, either. I knew the guys in my office had a weakness for pie (what is it with men and pie?), and one of Drew’s apple pies was the hit of the day.

Drew’s just added a to-go case as well and has stocked it with big, house-made mozzarella balls, as well as individual servings of their lasagna. I just wish they offered that lasagna for lunch, too.

I found the Philly cheesesteak rendition to be just okay, but the bread was excellent. A meatball sandwich here sounds much more tempting, thanks to my experience with the meatball pizza.

Just as I was leaving, Drew introduced me to something I had no experience with: sfogliatelle. “We’re the only place in town that has this,” he said. Sfogliatelle means “many leaves.” The pastry is stretched thin, brushed with butter. Layer upon layer is laid down, then the whole thing is rolled, cut into disks and stuffed with a filling, generally ricotta cheese. I haven’t tried it yet, but believe me, I will on my next visit.

If you live in Northwest Houston area, or even if you’re just passing through, it is a crime if you don’t make the slight detour off of 249 to stop in here. Hours are tricky, as they vary by day, so check the website before you go. They open early enough on weekdays, however, for you to pick up a box of sweet treats on the way to work.

DREW’S PASTRY PLACE, 10300 Louetta between Highway 249 & Cutten Road, 832-717-3530, drewspastryplace.com