The “Provisions” part of The Pass & Provisions is now open. Expectations are that “The Pass” will be similar to chefs Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan’s “Pilot Light” experiment in 2011, where high-quality ingredients met molecular gastronomy for stunning effect. In the meantime, we have Provisions to enjoy.

Let’s cut to the chase. Provisions is one of the must-go-to restaurants of 2012. There is something here for everyone. Are you a wine aficionado? Come introduce yourself to the sommelier, and he’ll get you fixed up. More of a cocktail person? No problem. Are you a self-proclaimed “foodie?” This is your spot. Do you think foodies are silly? How about a pizza and some beer?

I’d bring anyone here, from the snobbiest critic to my own motley crew of kids. There’s nothing at Provisions that takes itself too seriously. Overall, the area has the feel of a bistro, but what the chefs have set up at Provisions is a grand dichotomy where fine dining is a whole lot of fun.

The walls of the main dining room at Provisions are lined with reclaimed wood from a church basketball court. The court markings lend random touches of red and green to the large dining room, making the place seem both well-crafted and casual at the same time.

Staff members are not just friendly – they are exuberant. They are genuinely excited about Provisions and the dishes they are serving. Additionally, they are actually helpful when one asks for suggestions, focusing more on flavors than price points. Service here has been top-notch on both of my visits. It’s classy and helpful with not a bit of pretentiousness.

The bar staff is a cast of stars. Skipping libations here is not an option unless you’re on a budget or in recovery. Long-time Houston bartender Aaron Lara (who might also be the nicest guy in Houston) finally comes into his own at Provisions as bar manager. The Single Village cocktail he created while at Haven is one of the best I’ve ever had. The new El Hombre de la Ruina is like the older, worldly-wise brother of that drink, with mescal, oloroso sherry, curaçao, falernum and black pepper bitters.

He’s backed up by serious talent in Sebastian Nahapetian (also a low-key guy with massive skills) and Alex Gregg, whose Commercial Free cocktail events at Grand Prize were well-attended by industry peers. I had the pleasure of staging at Grand Prize Bar with Alex and Sebastian about six weeks ago and could not have had better teachers. I learned more behind the bar that night than sitting in front of the bar for two years.

Joining them is Zachary Adams, who was no slouch during his short stint at Haven and acquired serious fine dining experience while at Jean-Georges in New York. Consider indulging in the cleverly named A Clean, Well-Lighted Place (vermouth, rye-based gin, Benedictine, celery bitters and lemon oil) or War Room (Campari, Barolo Chinato, seltzer and orange oil).

Sommelier Fred Jones came from New York to be at The Pass & Provisions and is a perfect fit for Houston’s sensibilities. His enthusiasm reminds me of Justin Vann at Oxheart. Provisions offers the option of three-ounce pours for exactly half the price of a six-ounce. This gives diners the option of making the best pairing choices as they make their way through their meal. I had a lot of fun tormenting Jones, asking him for suggestions every 10 minutes. He’s a great guy, and I appreciated his patience. Check out the terrific wine selection here, including Cabs, dry Rieslings and things you can go out on a limb for, like Greek Xinomavro. With small pours available, there is no reason to not experiment.

Onward to the food: The menu is broken down into bread and cheese; vegetables; pizza; meat; pasta; fish and dessert. You simply must get some bread and cheese along with an order of the shaved ham of-the-day. The bread is wonderfully creative, my favorite so far being the Kimchi Pan au Lait with a slow-cooked egg yolk and silky, soft Cremont. After the first few bites, I topped some of mine off with the delicate shavings of speck ham offered that day.

The cresta de gallo pasta with roasted yeast and Parmesan is something that I will be going back for. “Cresta de gallo” means “rooster comb,” and indeed, the pasta is shaped like a crescent with one uneven edge. The pasta texture is wonderful and the earthy mushroom flavor is downright provocative. (I was going to say “heady,” but that would have set up a bad pun.)

I frankly doubt I’ll ever have anything here that I won’t like, but the wood-fired pizzas have a special place in my heart already. There are only a handful of places in Houston that make thin crust pizza correctly, and you can count Provisions amongst them. While the wildly creative guanciale (unsmoked bacon made from hog jowls) and uni pizza is the one that foodies are going gaga over, I actually preferred the burrata pizza. The garlic-scented crust comes to you naked (bianca) with a bowl of “burst” grape tomatoes in sauce on the side. Not only is the sauce delicious, but you get to play with your food as you top your own pizza. “Terrence and I eat the hell out of this after a shift,” said Siegel-Gardner. I can see why.

I can think of only one negative thing to say about Provisions. It’s too easy to spend money here, and that has nothing to do with the pricing. Everything is reasonably priced; most of the dishes range from $9 to $19. Even the fancy, high-end items are still reasonable, considering what you’re getting. Smoked salmon with chips, chive cream cheese and caviar is $37, and you can get a whole lobe of foie gras for $125.

But the problem is that everything is so enamoring that it’s hard to stop ordering. If you’re conscientious and skip the booze, you can skate out for around $50 for a very nice three-course dinner. You can have a mighty fine experience with a cocktail and three-ounce wine pairings for $100 per person … and a meal like no other if you’re ready to break the bank. My piggy bank had better run, because I’m looking for a hammer.

THE PASS & PROVISIONS 807 Taft, 713-628-9020 passandprovisions.com