A few years ago, I had the luck to get to know Chris Reid and Michael Fulmer. I was a fan of Reid’s detailed, well-research articles and food blog. He was, in fact, one of the people who encouraged me early on in my own writing, for which I will always be grateful. At that point, I didn’t yet know Fulmer as well, but I knew he was a pretty cool guy, too.
Together these guys did this intriguing thing called “barbecue runs,” where they’d travel to various parts of Central Texas in search of the best barbecue in the state. Much like an annoying kid sister, I begged to tag along. Actually, Reid and Fulmer were very welcoming, not only to me, but others.
Before too long, I found myself trying to make my middle-aged SUV keep up with a fellow BBQ runner’s sexy black Corvette en route to Austin.
I learned several things along the way. First, there is no way a 1996 Pathfinder can actually keep up with a sexy Corvette. Second, Franklin’s in Austin makes interesting, tender brisket with the right balance of seasonings and an even better espresso barbecue sauce. (That’s right, you hardcore Texas barbecue people. I said sauce.) Third, if you can catch Cooper’s in New Braunfels when they have cabrito (barbecued goat), you’re in for quite a treat. Fourth, almost every barbecue joint has something worth talking about.
After a few more BBQ runs, I started feeling a bit annoyed. Why was it necessary to drive hundreds of miles to obtain the best brisket, sausage and ribs? Did Houston have no worthy offerings capable of competing with Central Texas?
About that time Reid started the Houston BBQ Project, visiting dozens of places around the greater Houston area. He created an interactive map as well, so that others might see what was noteworthy and what was still lacking.
In time, Reid and Fulmer, along with several astute and hard-working volunteers, established the Houston BBQ Festival to highlight not only the well-known BBQ places in Houston, but smaller ones some people might not have heard of yet. This past Sunday, March 24, was the inaugural Houston BBQ Festival, and boy, was it well worth attending.
Houston has had some expensive and ill-coordinated food and drink festival fiascos, and Fulmer and Reid were determined to avoid the pitfalls. They took a recommendation from Jim Gossen to host it at Bayou City Event Center. It was an ideal selection. They also limited ticket sales – and all sales were in advance; no gate sales – to around 1,300 to avoid overcrowding.
Upon arriving at the Houston BBQ Festival, guests were given clear direction from officers on where to park. By the way, that’s free parking, not paid. There were real restrooms onsite, not just portable toilets. (After experiencing the disgusting toilet situation at this year’s Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo World Championship BBQ Competition, I was particularly excited about this.)
The site also featured a big pavilion with plenty of tables and seating and a few bars were scattered about from which one could get a tasty brew. Live bands played, giving the atmosphere a quintessential Texas feel.
Overall, it was one of the best-organized events I’ve attended, and I credit the laidback demeanor of the crowd to that. There was nothing stopping you from going straight to the line of your choice and getting a smoky sampling of barbecue.
General admission tickets were $40, and a VIP pass was available for $80. I thought the VIP pass was worth having, as you enjoyed an hour of short lines and a relatively full belly of beef by the time the masses arrived. Even when the crowd marched in, service at the barbecue stands moved rather smoothly, even at Gaitlin’s and Killen’s, which consistently boasted the longest lines.
My best bites of the day were Killen’s prehistoric-sized, meaty beef rib (photo at left), Pizzitola’s moist brisket, Corkscrew BBQ’s brisket that sported a mahogany “ring” of smoke and seasoning, and the flavorful but not-too-spicy jalapeño sausage from The Brisket House. I was too full after about six booths to keep going, though, so I’m sure I missed out on some other great dishes. That’s what I call getting my money’s worth.
Houston still has a ways to go before we can boast legendary barbecue status like our Central Texas brethren, but events like this one belie the “insecurity” some food critics have chosen to brand us with. We have nothing to be ashamed of when it comes to our barbecue heritage. I suggest you keep your eyes open for the Second Annual Houston BBQ Festival and get your tickets early when it rolls around in 2014. (At least we sure hope there will be a second one!)
In the meantime, check out Chris Reid’s BBQ Project map and give the nearest recommended place a try. Houston’s barbecue Renaissance has arrived.
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