Keep your eyes on the pies – one of the country’s best-loved desserts takes center stage during the holiday season. For some, it’s the filling that tickles their tastebuds (spicy apples, sassy cherries, creamy sweet potatoes); for others it is all about that buttery, flakey crust. Topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon, a slice of cheese, whipped cream or ice cream, pie is one of those desserts you can top with more dessert without getting the side eye from your fellow tablemates.
As we started to hear of Thanksgiving pie availability around town, we wanted to ask some of Houston’s best bakers about their favorite holiday memories and what baking tips they have for our readers this holiday season.
FLUFF BAKE BAR – OWNER/PASTRY CHEF REBECCA MASSON
Thanksgiving pies include apple ($25), pumpkin ($25), pecan ($25), chocolate cream ($28) and Mountain Rose apple ($39). Order pies by Sunday, November 20, for pickup on Tuesday, November 22, from 10 am to 10 pm or on Wednesday, November 23, from 10 am to 6 pm. 713-522-1900
What tips do you have for home bakers this holiday season?
Plan ahead before you start to bake. Make sure you have all your ingredients and tools ready to go. There really isn’t anything worse than getting halfway through a pie only to realize you don’t have everything. And don’t skimp on ingredients. Get the best flour, butter, sugar and eggs. It really does make a difference in taste.
What holiday dessert do you think doesn’t get enough credit?
The Jello salad made in the bundt mold. Ha! Just kidding. I love the panettone now. My sous chef, Kim, it’s one of her favorites, and now I love it as well. Making them, well that’s a whole three days worth of work. But luckily people like Roy Shvartzapel (formerly at Common Bond, now in California) are making gorgeous and super-delicious ones. And he makes different flavors. Do yourself a favor and order one online.
What’s your personal favorite pie that you offer?
We have a Mountain Rose Apple pie that I am so in love with. The apples come from one orchard in Hood River Valley, Oregon. We usually place our order for them in July or August. This is the fourth year we have had them. They taste like a cross between a Granny Smith and a Golden Delicious, but the best thing about them is the flesh is pink – my favorite color. This year we ordered the most apples ever – 150 pounds so we could have enough for everyone.
What is one of your favorite childhood holiday memories?
Christmas was always a huge deal at my house. All the family, all the food. We would make Christmas cookies, popcorn balls and fudge all together. It was always a battle to see who got to use the spritz cookie press first. Looking back, the cookies were all jumbled with icing and sprinkles, but they were the best cookies ever.
WEIGHTS + MEASURES – SOUS CHEF/HEAD BAKER MAX TORRES
Thanksgiving pies include pumpkin, apple, pumpkin pecan and Wild Turkey bourbon chocolate pecan ($28 each). Order pies by Sunday, November 20. 713-654-1970
What tips do you have for home bakers this holiday season?
Plan ahead! Don’t get caught going to the grocery at the last minute for ingredients. Don’t use old or rancid butter. We can all taste it. If it’s been in the back of the fridge for a while, buy fresh.
What holiday dessert do you think doesn’t get enough credit?
Ambrosia salad definitely. Somebody’s aunt or mom or grandma took the time to make it, and it’s funny and all, but it’s also delicious.
What’s your personal favorite pie that you offer?
My favorite has to be the Wild Turkey bourbon pecan. It has chocolate ganache in it and is heavy on the Turkey, so it really puts me in a good place. I like the the bourbon-chocolate flavor. It reminds me of camping or sitting out by a campfire.
What is one of your favorite childhood holiday memories?
Hands down my favorite holiday memory is seeing my daughter Lola’s face when she wakes up on Christmas morning. I have truly been blessed with a wonderful young lady, and every holiday I spend with her makes all the hard work and long hours worth it.
TRINITI RESTAURANT – PASTRY CHEF CAROLINE RAMIREZ
Thanksgiving pies include apple, pumpkin, pecan and peanut butter and jelly ($24 each). Order pies by Friday, November 18, before 5 pm. Pick-up on Wednesday, November 23, starting at 2 pm. 713-527-9090
What tips do you have for home bakers this holiday season?
Bake something new! I’m not saying to kick the apple pie out the door – just get out of the usual holiday treats. Challenge yourself on a new recipe and be creative.
What holiday dessert do you think doesn’t get enough credit?
Jelly roll cake certainly doesn’t get enough credit. It’s a wonderful sponge cake with filling of your choice. Personally, my family recipe is a vanilla sponge cake with jam filling, drizzled with cajeta (sweetened caramelized goat milk) and topped with toasted pecans.
What’s your personal favorite pie that you offer?
Peanut butter and jelly pie. It’s Triniti’s new pie this year, and I highly recommend it. Graham cracker peanut crust, filled with grape curd, crunchy peanut brittle and fluffed with toasted meringue.
What is one of your favorite childhood holiday memories?
Back in 2004 when I experienced my first snowfall in Galveston. Nothing beats snow on an island. I remember staying up with my siblings and playing in the snow, making snowmen and throwing snowballs at each other.
REVIVAL MARKET – PASTRY CHEF ALYSSA DOLE
Thanksgiving pies include apple, buttermilk, pecan, pumpkin and chocolate cream ($32 each). Order pies by Sunday, November 20. (Savory items must be ordered by Friday, November 18.) 713-880-8463
What tips do you have for home bakers this holiday season?
My advice to home bakers is always, “Don’t be scared.” I tell that to anyone taking one of my baking classes. Call me crazy, but I truly believe that the dough knows if you are intimidated, so go in confident and trust your instincts (and a good recipe ). For the holidays, choose a dessert that can be done the day before and save yourself the additional stress on Turkey Day.
What holiday dessert do you think doesn’t get enough credit?
My mom always made grasshoppers (think Reese’s cup but with a fluffy, mint filling.) These were my sister Kelli’s favorite and something I enjoy a lot as well. I have never met another family that makes these during the holidays, but I am always a fan. My family also made “cranberry ice” instead of cranberry sauce. It essentially is a cranberry and ginger ale granita. It is a refreshing juxtaposition to all the decadence of the Thanksgiving meal.
What’s your personal favorite pie that you offer?
My favorite pie is the pumpkin pie. It is my perfect pumpkin pie — not too sweet and just the right amount of spice.
What is one of your favorite childhood holiday memories?
My favorite holiday memory is tied in with my favorite pie. My mother and I were the main pumpkin pie eaters in the family, so there would always be leftovers the next day. So, for breakfast, she and I would eat pumpkin pie with our hands (no plates allowed), standing in the kitchen (with a lot of whipped cream, of course). It tasted so much better that way and was the only time I would be allowed pie for breakfast.
PETITE SWEETS – OWNER/PASTRY CHEF SUSAN MOLZAN
Thanksgiving pies include pumpkin, chocolate pecan, apple, coconut cream, cherry, chocolate cream, key lime and lemon meringue ($28 each or two for $50). Other sweets include cakes and cheesecakes. Order pies and cakes three days in advance. 713-520-7007
What tips do you have for home bakers this holiday season?
1 – Always have your ingredients at room temperature, this includes eggs, butter and liquids. 2 –When adding the flour to a cake batter or cookie dough, mix it as little as possible after adding. You do not want to develop the gluten or the product will become tough and dry. 3 – When whipping egg whites use a very clean, grease-free bowl and make sure the whites are at room temperature. 4 – Always read the recipe completely before beginning. 5 – Almost all cookie dough is better if it has a chance to rest in the refrigerator overnight or at least several hours. It gives the gluten a chance to relax and the flavors to blend. 6 – Measure your ingredients carefully. Use dry measuring cups for dry ingredients and liquid measuring cups for liquids. 7 – Line all cookie sheets with parchment paper, there is no need to butter or spray pans and the clean-up is so easy. 8 – If you don’t have time to let the eggs sit at room temperature put them in a bowl of warm water for about five minutes. 9 – Don’t believe everything you see on Pinterest. Yours may not look like theirs.
What holiday dessert do you think doesn’t get enough credit?
Fruitcake! Fruitcake can be delicious if you make it the right way. Unlike most desserts, you should make it months in advance. Drench the cake it Maker’s Mark every week or so. The more bourbon the better.
What’s your personal favorite pie that you offer?
I have loved our cherry pie ever since I was little and my mother used to make it for us. When I would come home from college for Christmas break the first thing I wanted to eat was my mother’s cherry pie. My mother passed down the recipe to me, and I have passed it on to my children. I hope it will stay in the family for generations. The chocolate cream pie is a close second.
What is one of your favorite childhood holiday memories?
Growing up, every Christmas Eve we would have formal Christmas tea before church. I grew up in western New York State, where there was six feet of snow at Christmas and temperatures below freezing. We would get dressed up and huddle around the fireplace in the living room. My mother would get out her sterling silver tea set, make beautiful tea sandwiches, and of course, decadent desserts. My little brother did not care for tea, so my mom would always make a pot of homemade Belgium hot chocolate for him.
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