Just as a rose might smell as sweet by any other name, so would a small, locally owned Italian restaurant’s lasagna taste as good. Changing ownership almost a year ago, Raia’s Italian Market on Washington Avenue has finally unveiled its new moniker: Polovina Italian Cafe.

After some patient refinement and putting his own stamp on the casual Italian concept, new owner Terry Polovina (right) unveiled a name last week that reflects the restaurant’s transition over the last year.

“Little by little, I’ve tried to infuse some of my own tastes into it,” said Polovina, a culinary arts graduate who, ironically, had no actual industry experience other than school before buying Raia’s last July.

Some of his “own tastes” include what he deems a more upscale look with larger, darker table tops, an improved patio with additional tables and more umbrellas to shade those brave souls sweating it out in the Houston summer.

And in a move to help differentiate the Italian restaurant from its very similar neighbor, D’Amico’s Italian Market Cafe in the Heights (just 1.9 miles north), Polovina did away with the quaint red-checkered tablecloths reminiscent of that famous spaghetti-sharing scene from Lady and the Tramp and hopes to slowly phase out the “market” part of the restaurant.

“One of the things I want to do is get rid of the market area completely and put in a bar off to the side,” said Polovina. “I think it would be good for the Washington Avenue crowd.”

Menu tweaks include wines by the glass and new menu items like a goat cheese pizza and steak braciole (stuffed with pine nuts, spinach and breadcrumbs). Possibly the biggest change is the addition of weekend brunch, because everyone knows the best way to nurse a hangover caused by a wild night on Washington Avenue is to head back up there late the next morning for pancakes and an egg sandwich with pesto.

But Polovina didn’t change a thing about one dish in particular. “One of our signature items is the osso buco, which is the same as the previous owners,” said Polovina. “I think it’s the best in Houston.”

POLOVINA ITALIAN CAFE (formerly Raia’s Italian Cafe & Market), 4500 Washington Avenue, 713-861-1042, polovinaitalian.com