You’ve probably driven past Pepino’s Italian Restaurant – it’s nestled between the kneeling cement elephants of El Pueblito and piano bar Michael’s Outpost on the edge of a Richmond Avenue shopping center – a thousand times. And I’d be surprised if you ever seriously considered stopping in for dinner. People are quick to turn up their nose at modest strip-center dining, and this place is so modest as to be nearly invisible.

But a couple years ago I had just moved into the neighborhood and was eager to establish enough rapport with my neighbors to make my unusual presence … usual.

An Italian eatery doesn’t typically entertain joggers, but I was deciding my route for my newly formed Girls Only Montrose Pub Run and wanted a zesty penne to refuel on my last stop. None of my lady-jogger friends liked my marinara idea, however, perhaps because Pepino’s was too under-the-radar. Some people require a recommendation by at least someone they know or read or follow on social media, and Pepino’s wasn’t. But I had to wonder: If this restaurant isn’t ever talked about, how has it been in business for more than 15 years?

I discovered it suffered from the classic strip-center misjudgment: Guilty before being proven tasty. Having made a fan of me, I was now on a quest for someone, anyone, to dine with me at Pepino’s. After all, it’s right there, perfectly positioned around the corner from me just a few feet from Mandell Park (photo below).

Photo courtesy of Asakura Robinson

When I first started dating my boyfriend, I tried pitching Pepino’s to him, too. But when my arguments – “We won’t see anyone we know” and “I really, really want to try it. Pleeeze.” – didn’t work, I forged a bet where the winner would have to take the loser to Pepino’s. Naturally I lost the bet. That’s when I finally went to Pepino’s.

It was the perfect evening. A stroll through said park and garden to the restaurant. Nice wine that we BYOB’d and spicy mussels in red sauce, anchovies and red peppers – ingredients as bold and gutsy as any lover of Southern Italian food could ask for.

Photo courtesy of Facebook

I was having great delight in my bet paying off, swirling my Cabernet in victory, when an unexpected guest walked through the door. Chris Shepherd of Underbelly was eating … here? at Pepino’s?

My surprise caused me to spill my Cab mid-swirl on my date’s white jeans. But I couldn’t care: Houstonian and food hero Shepherd had just won his James Beard Award that week and was choosing to eat at one of my favorite hole-in-the-wall joints. I congratulated him on his award (and then gave myself a pat on the back for finding the best date spot in the neighborhood). If it’s good enough for Shepherd, I thought, it’s good enough me.

It’s been nearly a year since that dinner at Pepino’s. A year of bright, spicy, rich Italian meals that I’ve shared with my boyfriend (now fiancé), fellow food enthusiasts, and even friends and family at our engagement dinner. The lesson: It sometimes pays to go off the beaten track and find your own best restaurant.

A few weeks ago Taylor Byrne Dodge shared one of her favorite under-the-radar joints, Pizzitola’s Bar-B-Que. We would like to invite you to tell us what your favorite Houston under-the-radar or “old school” restaurants are, and why you love them so much. Is it because the menu hasn’t changed? Or is it because you grew up eating there? Have you known the staff for many years? We always want to know what our readers treasure. Share your thoughts with us at SideDish@My-Table.com.