Chris Cusack (above) is the “sack” part of the Treadsack Group, one of Houston’s fastest growing and remarkable restaurant partnerships. (Partner Joey Treadway contributes the other half of the name.) In recent years, they have opened Down House, D&T Drive Inn, Johnny’s Gold Brick and, just since the summer, Hunky Dory (an American-British pub) and Foreign Correspondents (farm-to-table Northern Thai food). Bernadine’s (a Gulf Coast seafood concept) is set to open in the next few weeks. About two years ago, the Treadsack Group even launched a quarterly magazine, Sugar & Rice, devoted to food and culture along the Gulf coast.

A native Houstonian, Cusack is a graduate of St. Pius X High School and the University of Texas at Austin. We recently caught up with this very busy man to ask a few nosy questions.

How did you come to the restaurant business?

I’ve been working in restaurants since I was 16. Bussing tables, washing dishes, some kitchen work and eventually serving, bartending and managing. I’ve loved it from day one. The first place I owned was a coffee shop in Austin called Thunderbird Coffee. Some friends brought me in as a managing partner, and I worked my way up.

What was your earliest ambition?

I’m a pretty big idealist, so most of my ambitions have centered around finding a way to do good in the world. Hospitality allows me the opportunity to craft a company that I think brings good things to all of its stakeholders – the employees, guests, vendors, investors and the industry as a whole. 

How politically committed are you?

I was a Government major, so I’ve always been fascinated by politics. I do still get excited about the election season, but I have to admit that I’ve become a little disenchanted with the political process itself. I love being a business owner because the opportunity to do good is tangible and direct, and that’s what I’ve decided to focus most of my energy on nowadays.

What is your biggest extravagance?

I’m kind of a sneaker head, and I’ve recently developed a renewed obsession with baseball hats of Houston sports teams. Every time I go The Galleria to get a haircut I buy a baseball hat and often a pair of shoes. Maybe it’s a late quarter-life crisis, because sneakers and baseball hats is pretty much how I dressed when I was 17.

What made you want to publish a magazine?

It’s a passion project for us. I think there’s something special going on in Houston and the Gulf Coast, and we want to put our efforts into recording and telling the story of our culture. Publishing long-form regional food/culture essays may never get us huge circulation, but I’m really proud when people get excited about something they learned about food and the Gulf.

The current issue of Sugar & Rice

What would you like to own that you don’t currently possess?

I have a bet that if Hunky Dory reaches a certain sales goal in the first year that I’ll buy a speedboat and teach a panther to drive it [a scene that’s tattooed on Cusack’s abdomen]. It seems kind of unlikely, but I like to shoot for the moon.

How physically fit are you?

I actually do pretty well. I’ve always been a gym enthusiast and an athlete when I was younger. I’m really glad I developed those habits because it’s very easy to get out of shape in this business. In the last few years I’ve spent less time in the gym and more time on the running trail. I find it helps me clear my head and prepare for my day.

Is there a Houston bar or restaurant that inspired you early on?

Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught are a gift to Houston. They’re consistent, ambitious and great leaders for Houston. Bobby Heugel showed us that there was a real interest for the craft movement in Houston. David Buehrer of Greenway Coffee & Tea was one of the first people to reach out to me in Houston. He’s passionate about his work and one of the greatest community builders I know. The people in the Houston hospitality scene are what make it so great.

Your friends are coming to Houston and have never been before. What must they do while they’re here?

Not to toot our own horn here, but I think Foreign Correspondents is a really special place. I consider it a must to everyone visiting Houston. It speaks to the diversity, the excitement, and the adventure that the Houston food scene offers. I’d also make sure to visit Alba Huerta over at Julep. Southern hospitality and very fine cocktails. While you’re in the area I recommend taking a stroll down the newly [redesigned and renovated] Buffalo Bayou. It’s a gorgeous part of Houston – maybe the best view in the city.

Your favorite food and drink pairing?

One of my favorite things to do (when I have the time) is to take a long lunch on a Friday and start with a dozen Gulf oysters and a classic gin martini. Two ounces of Ford’s Gin, Dolin Dry Vermouth, orange bitters, stirred, up. So simple and delicious.