Some trigger-happy restaurant-owners announce immediately upon conception that their new spot is “coming soon.” We’re not naming too many names here, but you know how it often goes. Permit delays, build-out snafus, chef shuffles and misbegotten funding can all contribute to openings delayed by months, sometimes even a year or more.

We’d anticipated an April opening of Southern Goods, the Southern comfort food and bar concept from Charles Bishop (of Liberty Station and Cottonwood) and Lyle Bento (former sous-chef of Underbelly). To the surprise of exactly no one, it opened a few months later than its owners had announced, in mid-August to be exact.

The menu is just what the restaurant name announces: Southern (culinary) goods. While the menu isn’t lengthy, there’s enough offered — small shared plates, individual plates and dessert — to represent much of what we know as traditional Southern food. Also behind the grill is chef Patrick Feges, whose name you might recognize from Killen’s Barbeque.

Open less than a month, it is clear (and expected) that Southern Goods is still finding its sea legs in The Heights. The dining room isn’t huge, and parking in the lot on site isn’t ample, but there is a patio prime for crisp autumn evenings and parking available on 19th street. There are, however, a few dishes that are clear winners already.

Even if you don’t believe yourself a fan of okra, don’t skip the Southern staple at the top of the menu.  A small bowl of pickled fried okra ($7) is served with creamy dill buttermilk dressing, ideal for two people to nosh on with house cocktails such as the old-fashioned and sazerac. If you’re sharing small plates with your dining companions, try also the shrimp and grits croquettes ($13, photo above).

The picnic basket platter was fun ($12), but when a group of five tried to share it, it proved a bit meager. (It would have been fine for two or three diners together.) Slices of summer sausage, a small dish of house-made pimiento cheese, sliced veggies, pickles and slices of bolillo come together to make a crudite platter, all served on a rustic metal tray.

You could share the burnt beef ends, but you won’t want to ($19, photo above). Accompanied by smooth cheese grits and braised greens, the cane syrup makes this more of a savory meat candy than a ho-hum brisket entree.

You will also be stingy with the grilled cheese sandwich, which comes with tomato soup (just a little shotglassful) and is loaded with barbecue and cheddar on Texas toast.

Desserts include a Saint Arnold root beer float ($6, photo above) featuring Fat Cat Creamery ice-cream, bourbon balls ($7) and bananas Foster ($9).

Bourbon is boss when it comes to the market of Southern spirits, but the cocktail menu at Southern Goods also includes rum- and tequila-based classics such as the Hemingway daiquiri and a margarita. Don’t expect an extensive list of cutesy cocktails or creative labor — the list includes just six cocktails total, along with five red wines and five white wines.

Southern Goods opens at 5 pm Monday through Friday and closes at midnight Monday through Thursday. On Friday, the eatery stays open until 2 am. They open at 11 am on Saturday and Sunday, closing at 2 am on Saturday and 10 pm on Sunday.

Southern Goods, 632 W 19th, 346-980-8152, southerngoodshouston.com