Benjy Levit and chef/partner Dylan Murray opened the fourth outpost of their seasonally-focused Local Foods restaurant on Thursday, January 12. My Table was invited to stop in last week to check out the downtown digs and sample a few of the new menu items.

The restaurant took over the space at 420 Main Street that was most recently Georgia’s Farm to Market, but you might better know the 1934 historic Art Deco building as the home of Byrd’s Department Store.

Levit brought on Michael Hsu and Micah Land of Michael Hsu Office of Architecture and designer Aaron Rambo of Found for the Home – they have worked together on past Local Foods locations – to re-imagine the space while also paying homage to the building’s history. Like the other locations, the interior is funky yet modern, with impressive architectural features, eclectic finishes and pops of bright color – specifically hues of teal and turquoise to highlight the first-ever Local Foods raw bar and ceviche program. Walk up the stairs to the mezzanine level, which features lounge-like seating, and you’ll notice the blue and pale green tile that was original to Byrd’s Department store.

It definitely feels like a Local Foods inside, then one look at the menu and you know you’re in the right place. All of the Local Foods favorites can be found here – crunchy chicken sandwich, truffle egg salad, Asian chicken salad, etc.

New to the menu is Milton’s All-Day Breakfast Sandwich ($12, photo above), named after Levit’s father. It features Hebrew National Beef salami, aioli, sharp cheddar, crispy onions, house pickles and a farm egg on challah Texas toast. It’s definitely heavier than the restaurant’s typical healthful takes on sandwiches, and we’re okay with that. It’s salty and rich and packs tons of texture. It’s a peek at what breakfast could be like at Local Foods, and we’re intrigued.

Another new sandwich, the “BHR” Ham Sandwich ($11.50, photo above), loads up Black Hill Ranch ham, house kimchi, butternut squash slaw and honey beer mustard on a baguette. At first glance, the slaw resembles shredded cheddar, but we promise you won’t miss cheese on this sandwich. There’s plenty of tang from the honey beer mustard and kimchi, and the butternut slaw provides crunchy texture.

As noted above, this location features a Local Foods first: a raw bar and ceviche program. Head to the middle of the restaurant and take a seat at the bar to order from the raw bar menu, available during dinner service. The menu lists about seven appetizers and two entrees (not all pulling inspiration from the sea) that are different from the restaurant’s order-at-the-counter menu.

Don’t miss the edamame spinach dip ($8) served with bagel chips, which will satisfy your need for speed-eating chips and dip, with a little less guilt. For something lighter, try the Gulf shrimp “ceviche style,” which has been marinated in lime and orange juice served with avocado puree ($8, photo above). The shrimp is slightly sweet, and the marinade has imparted extra moisture and citrusy notes.

Another seafood addition is the snapper campechana ($9, photo above) served with saltines and lime. This rendition of the tomato-seafood starter is fresh and bright, with a subtle sweetness.

There are cocktails unique to this location, too. Vinny Torrez, the location’s general manager, oversaw the creation of the bar and cocktail menu. A few of his favorites: the Lemon Basil Gimlet ($10) with Enchanted Rock vodka, fresh basil and lemon; the Kaiser Soze ($10, photo below at left) with Swift Texas single malt whiskey and ginger honey; and the Mr. Pink ($10, photo below at right) made with house hibiscus-infused rum, citrus juice and ginger beer.

This Local Foods is the first location to launch a designated happy hour. Seven days a week, stop in between 4 and 7 pm and enjoy $4 Texas beers, $4 house wine, $5 sangrias and $6 cocktails. 

All of the locations open at 10 am, but the downtown Local Foods team will be keeping an eye on morning traffic to explore the possibility of opening for breakfast. So if you’re an early-bird worker in downtown, perhaps you should swing by Local Foods in the morning and take a peek through the window. They just might notice.

Local Foods, 420 Main at Prairie, 713-227-0531, houstonlocalfoods.com
Hours: 10 am to 8 pm, seven days a week