Times, they are a’changin’ in The Heights as we enjoy yet another new restaurant in the neighborhood. I admit that my expectations were especially high for chef/partner Lance Fegan’s new Liberty Kitchen & Oyster Bar. I miss Fegan’s cuisine at The Glass Wall, just down the street (no longer affiliated with him). I’ve enjoyed BRC, but for whatever reason, I don’t go very often. Liberty Kitchen is close by and calling my name.

The biggest challenge might be the size of the menu itself. It is huge and just about everything sounds delicious. I love the idea of coming here 10 different times to try 10 different things, though I’m not yet confident that all 10 would be great. Still, our first couple of visits has provided a solid introduction to the menu and a feel for the place – and hope for Liberty Kitchen to fulfill its potential.

The atmosphere is unexpected and charming. Color-washed wood (reclaimed within the neighborhood) is combined with cement floors and industrial touches to provide a casual yet chic feel – like you’re somewhere in New England and on the Gulf Coast at the same time. The kitchen is in open view surrounded by a large bar. The place is abuzz weeknights with both couples and families and on a Friday, the wait was close to an hour for our four-top, even though we arrived at 6:45. (Reservations are available for parties of six or more only.)

The food is very much American comfort food with an emphasis on seafood, including several oyster options. On our first visit, we ordered Gulf oysters on the half shell, and they were fantastic. The seafood gumbo looked gorgeous with its dark roux, but was served lukewarm and under-seasoned, requiring a few shakes of Tabasco to jazz it up. It’s served with fried okra on top (nice touch) and is also available with shrimp and fried oysters or crab meat.

We gave a try to the “Jungle Gorilla Burger Bowl” with chopped burger, local iceberg, avocado, jalapeño, hand-cut/twice-cooked fries, chile con queso and a fried egg. The pieces of hamburger packed a lot of flavor and overall it was fun to eat though the queso was somewhat bland. I also couldn’t resist ordering the mac ’n cheese that is served in an iron skillet. There’s a plain model or the “Gulf/Hill Country” version with cheddar, shrimp, sausage, bacon, chilies, onions and a buttered crumb crust. Guess which one we chose? I have to say the highlight was the addition of the shrimp, which were screamin’ fresh. I think I might always have to have fresh shrimp in my mac ’n cheese from now on.

More big, fresh – and this time fried – shrimp adorned the shrimp sandwich (they’re not calling them po’boys), served on crusty French bread with a good smear of yummy remoulade and bacon jam along with arugula and cherry tomatoes. Numerous other sandwich options enliven the menu with everything from hand-chopped yellow-fin to a tuna salad melt on a toasted English muffin and the one I’m most likely to try next — spiced brisket, creamy malt slaw, cheddar, pickle and Hedge Hill Ranch on pumpernickel. Sign me up.

On our second visit, we decided to choose from the menu section headed “Charcoal and Peach Wood Grill,” a variety of fresh fish and meat options. Two of my tablemates went with the snapper, and I chose the grouper. One of the grilled snapper filets was almost double the size of the other, and both were deemed “fine, but nothing spectacular” by my friends. I agreed. My grouper was slightly overcooked and I also wondered if I should have taken advantage of the optional spice rub even though I had looked forward to “simply grilled with sea salt and cracked pepper” preparation.

The best entrée of the night was my friend’s “Hollywood” pork ribs with apple cider-mustard glaze. They were tender, smoky and delicious and all of our sides were quite tasty – fresh garlicky spinach, creamy malt slaw and asparagus with bacon jam.

I’ve tried two of the desserts – a slice of apple pie from My DeeDee’s, a Northside pie shop Fegan also utilizes for BRC. Unfortunately, it wasn’t as scrumptious as I’ve experienced before with a couple of the cream pies, but I’m still glad they’re serving her pies. Everyone at the table raved about the bread pudding – something Fegan is known for – with raspberries, white chocolate and a fantastic buttery, rich dark caramel sauce.

There’s a breakfast plate served all day and a special breakfast menu for Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Kid’s plates come on a schoolhouse tray; there’s fresh lemonade, custard milkshakes plus “custom” brews from Karbach brewery and a full bar. So many things I’m excited about even though so far it has been a mixed bag for me. I so want to love this place. As they continue to tweak things, hopefully I will.

LIBERTY KITCHEN & OYSTER BAR, 1050 Studewood at 11th Street, 713-802-0533 Liberty Kitchen & Oyster Bar