I didn’t think I would love Katsuya, the new (and only non-California) outpost of the famed L.A. hotspot created by master sushi chef Katsuya Uechi and renowned designer Philippe Starck. There were early reports of way too many beautiful people crowding in, and I worried that the atmosphere would be totally cheesy. I also assumed the food would not be so great, especially considering how smitten I’ve been with Uchi, the recently opened Japanese superstar in Montrose. I was wrong.

At a recent dinner – it’s been dinner-only so far, but the Katsuya website notes that lunch service begins today, May 1 – we started with a couple of signature items from the expansive menu. The crispy rice with spicy tuna was splendid in its simplicity and flavor. The crispy/chewy texture of the rice along with the super-fresh and spicy tuna had just the right kick with serrano pepper. It was a happy bite. The baked crab hand roll was rich, with the subtle flavor of crab and wrapped in soy paper, which complimented the dish much more than seaweed would have.

Naturally we also ordered refreshments from the bar – or, as Katsuya has it, the “Liquid Kitchen.” We were impressed with something called “Burning Mandarin” – Mandarin vodka, fresh lemon and orange juice with a splash of cranberry juice and hand-crushed serrano chili. The little burn at the end was right on – it was one of the best cocktails I’ve ever had. I also loved the “Watermelon Cucumber Mojito” with Bacardi rum, crushed watermelon, cucumber, mint and lime juice.

From the robata grill, we ordered a maitake mushroom, a variety I’ve never tried before. (You may know this mushroom as hen-of-the-woods.) I’d describe it as something between a shiitake and a chanterelle, and it arrived sizzling with a smoky char and awesome flavor. I can’t wait to try more items from the grill menu – everything from a number of vegetable options to rice, poultry, seafood and even several bacon options (tomato bacon, anyone?).

Apparently, Katsuya’s Left Coast management team thought it would be a good idea to add beef dishes to the Houston version of their menu. Good call. Consider what I’d call “Japanese fajitas.” The tabanyaki tenderloin was served sizzling with a variety of wild mushrooms. Not only was it intensely flavorful, it was a good-sized portion. If you have a fish-phobe on your hands, bring them here for this dish. They’ll be thrilled.

But speaking of fish: My favorite dish of the evening was the miso-marinated black cod. Another item from the robata grill, the fish is marinated for 48 hours, resulting in a buttery texture that melts in the mouth. I loved the sear as well.

The menu is huge – it includes prix fixe options and even a kid’s menu – and there are many more items I can’t wait to try. Yes, it is a major see-and-be-scene, and the décor is over the top. But the food and drinks are so good, I’ll strap on my stilettos and wander amongst the beautiful people if I must. And you should, too.

KATSUYA BY STARCK, 2800 Kirby at Westheimer in West Ave., 713-590-2800, sbe.com/katsuya/houston