This past Monday saw the first of two preview dinners* for Goro & Gun, a new and much-anticipated “ramen shop” that officially opens tonight for dinner service at 4 pm. Joshua Martinez, co-owner, along with chefs David Coffman (formerly of Katsuya) and Matt Womack (who used to be at Revival Market), served a tasting menu that revealed that the downtown hideaway has much more to offer than just noodles.

*Disclaimer: While this is a first look at Goro & Gun, this soft opening was not a complimentary meal. The writer and her companion both paid $85 for their special 5-course meal. 

Actually, the ramen itself was one of the more disappointing dishes of the soft opening. The “tonkatsu ramen” (the name of which likely suffered from a typo and should have been tonkotsu ramen) suffered from excessive oiliness that coated the lips and tongue, and gummy noodles that stuck to the teeth. I respected that the owners announced after the dish was served that there were some problems and they were still working out the kinks.

But even with the problems, the ramen wasn’t a total loss. Each serving had a perfectly cooked egg and generous slices of pork belly, the edges of which somehow still remained miraculously crispy in broth. I have high hopes that the kitchen will have their techniques refined by the time they open tonight. A great ramen shop will be a boon to Houston.

The other strikeout of the night was fried chicken. The breading was wonderful: crispy, thick and a little salty and spicy. However, the chicken had been cooked via sous vide, and the slow-cook water bath method did the texture no favors. More than one diner picked apart the chicken suspiciously checking to see if it was fully cooked. (It was.) One of the most delightful aspects of great fried chicken is the crispy skin, but it wasn’t present here. Under the deep brown batter, the skin was milky white. The cooking method, while an interesting idea, just didn’t work out.

Now that the negatives are out of the way, onward to the high notes of this promising establishment. Every other dish served was a home run. The night started with crispy Brussels sprouts spiked with pickled raisins, toasted pine nuts and itogaki (dried and shaved blue fin tuna). The textures of the soft, chewy raisins against the slightly charred Brussels sprouts made it one of those dishes that makes you want to ask for a second helping.

Scallop carpaccio with cured egg yolk was playfully garnished with bacon-lemonade popcorn and a dried slice of scallop with a coconut-like texture. It worked wonderfully well. I could have done without the single, tart, string-like shred of Meyer lemon, although I would have welcomed shredded, candied rind scattered across the top.

The kitchen has mastered the art of breading, apparently, as evidenced by the utterly wonderful tempura short rib. I cook short ribs sometimes. They never look as meaty and problem-free as the ones Goro & Gun served. I’d love to know their secret.

As for the yuzu curd they served for dessert, I think it is one of the most masterful endings to a meal that I’ve had so far this year. I’m not a big fan of the more ubiquitous lemon curd, but yuzu curd is a hit with me now. Crispy flakes of meringue, rich, cloud-like sesame-vanilla powder and candied cucumber skin turned this concoction into a party for the mouth.

Goro & Gun – the restaurant takes its name from the 1985 Japanese comedy film, Tampopo – is much more than a ramen shop. The bar takes up a good third of the total space, the better for a group of well-regarded Houston bartenders to perform their magic. The esteemed list includes Alex Gregg (formerly of The Pass & Provisions), Steven O’Sullivan (Pass & Provisions), Alex Garcia (Grand Prize Bar and Moon Tower Inn), Kimberly Paul (Cullen’s), Ornella Ashcraft (Haven and Anvil Bar & Refuge) and Caitlin Vann (Leon’s).

Indeed, the cocktail pairings were among the best things of the evening. I marveled at how well cumin seeds turned the “Jeera Sour” into something that paired perfectly with those crispy Brussels sprouts. While Gregg could have pumped up the volume of the lemongrass flavors in his “LG Collins,” I found myself unable to let it go, even after my next drink arrived.

There was one more flash of brilliance that night as I had my first taste of what the Eatsie Boys have been doing out at the new 8th Wonder Brewing. Their “cross between an amber and a brown ale” called Alternate Universe impressed with its sophistication and restraint. Hopston, on the other hand, is strictly for those who want their beers bitter. It’s not for me, but I know it will make someone happy. I look forward to tasting more of their brews in the near future.

The most compelling ingredient of the night? Goodwill. There was camaraderie in the air not only amongst the staff, but with the guests as well, who ranged from foodies to friends to notable chefs. I think everyone who was there wants Goro & Gun to be wildly successful, including me. I’ve watched Josh Martinez go from being a maître d’ in a fine suit at Kata Robata to running The Modular, a food truck putting out food so remarkable that it got national press coverage on multiple occasions.

I’m happy he’s in a storefront. It’s easier for me to track him (and his food dreams come-to-life) down now. I still have high hopes for the ramen. Maybe you’ll see me hunkered down over a bowl tonight.

GORO & GUN 306 Main at Congress, no website just yet, Twitter