Biskit Junkie may look like a quiet little rustic house on the outside. But inside, platters of hot biscuits are being churned out at warp speed. Located on lower Westheimer in Montrose (it used to be the music venue Mango’s), this new spot serves cross-cultural fare with an emphasis on the fluffy buttermilk biscuit. You know how Jus’ Mac and Fat Bao have taken macaroni and cheese and bao pancakes, respectively, and loaded them with various international flavors? That’s the concept here, each offering built on a biscuit.
Everything is made from scratch, and the specialties menu is impressive with its line-up of colossal biscuit sandwiches designed to satisfy greasy cravings. Whether you’re hankering for a classic breakfast sandwich with bacon, egg and cheese or a cheeky biscuit version of the “Presley” with lots of peanut butter, bacon, strawberry preserves and tempura-fried chicken, Biskit Junkie has plenty to choose from – including non-biscuit options like burgers and fries (after 2 pm), chicken and waffles, short rib hash, omelets and fish and chips.
Armed with a ravenous appetite, I ordered two biscuit sandwiches to try. The “Hot Flight” ($8.80, photo below) landed in South Asia with a fiercely spicy tikka masala sauce pooled on a slab of fried chicken sandwiched between two soft, creamy biscuits. While the sauce’s rich fragrance elevated the fried chicken’s flavor, the combination with the biscuits was a little harder for me to embrace. I suppose I’m used to the home-style pairing of biscuits with butter or gravy, but the “Hot Flight” was an intriguing experience nonetheless. I’d try it again.
The second biscuit masterpiece, crowned with an amusing name – “Say What?!” ($8, photo below) – was a glorious sight. Layers of sausage patty, fried egg, sheen of apple butter and plenty of maple syrup were barely held together between twin biscuits. Lazy yellow egg yolk trickled onto the plate, and I dug in, carving at the crusty, slightly charred pepper sausage and loading it up with egg. A more generous swipe of apple butter would do the trick, but overall this was a hearty, cozy meal.
No matter what is said about the sauces and fixings – other protein options include pulled pork, Black Forest ham, andouille and chicken-fried steak – the biscuits are worthy of preening. You’ll sink your teeth into downy, buttery pillows, touched with a hint of crumbliness and a flour dusting. I would come here just for these, the crowning gems of Biskit Junkie.
Biskit Junkie, 403 Westheimer, biskitburgerbeer.com
Hours: Closed Mon.; Tue.-Thur. 7:30 am – 9 pm; Fri. 7:30 am – 10 pm; Sat. 9 am – 10 pm; Sun. 9 am – 8 pm
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