Taking the place of Sorrel Urban Bistro in the Upper Kirby area down the street from the Whole Foods on Kirby, owner Ray Salti’s Bollo Woodfired Pizza delivers Neapolitan-style pizza in an atmosphere that can be reflective of whatever mood you are in. The menu features casual dining prices and a slightly upscale ambiance, which make this a versatile option for either a business lunch or a night out with your significant other. At its most basic, it’s the perfect neighborhood joint for a casual drop-in after a grueling day at the office.

Let’s start with cocktails. The drink menu offers a comfortable selection of beer, wine, cocktails and frozen drinks. We sampled the Bollo negroni ($9) and the frozen bellini ($5, photo below). Their negroni is a blend of Campari (an Italian aperitif), sweet vermouth, Bombay Sapphire and soda topped with a citrus wedge. The bellini, for those who prefer sweeter libations, is made with Dripping Springs vodka, peach and vanilla flavors and Prosecco. Mixed drinks, in general, are a bargain here. You can also bring your own special bottle of wine for a $15 corkage fee.

The food menu is sectioned into small plates, salads, bigger plates and pizzas. We were guests of the restaurant, and the kitchen sent out an order of meatballs ($6, photo below) and the crispy calamari ($11). The meatballs are plated with a generous ladle of marinara, two crostini and topped with shaved parmesan. The calamari is served with two dipping sauces – spicy marinara and tzatziki. The tzatziki and calamari combination was a first for all of us, but the flavors were surprisingly good together. Looking for something lighter, we also tried the Caprese salad ($7). The Italian classic is plated in the traditional basil, tomato and mozzarella pattern and finished with an aged balsamic reduction.

Bollo’s pizza selection includes six white-based options (bianco) and six red sauce options (rosse), along with a “build your own” assembly. We decided on the salsiccia (sausage) pizza ($14, photo below) from the white options and, by the looks of the platter once we were finished, it was the right choice. The base is made with EVOO, fresh basil, tomatoes and mozzarella and then topped with Sicilian sausage, roasted red peppers, red onions and buffalo mozzarella. The wood-fired aspect of the pizza is what allows Bollo to fulfill the Neapolitan style that it boasts. Their wood-fired oven is kept at 900 degrees Fahrenheit and can make pizzas in less than two minutes. Because of the intense heat and fine (00) Neapolitan flour that the Bollo kitchen uses, the crust is nicely charred and puffy.

A complete restaurant experience never skips dessert, right? Bollo’s dessert options are limited to gelato, chocolate cake or tiramisu. We were served the triplo gelato ($12, photo below), a triadic dish with each hollow filled with one scoop of chocolate, pistachio and vanilla flavors.

Bollo’s classic menu and agreeable price point are owner/operator Ray Salti’s main selling points. Founder of the Pepperoni’s chain and Ray’s Grill, as well as owner of the late Sorrell Urban Bistro, Salti wanted Bollo to be a place where the recipes are easy and the bar is open late. Don’t let the kitchen hours fool you; the bar is always open at least an hour later. Did we mention their $19 pizza and bottle of wine nights? The deal is offered Monday through Thursday 4 to 7 pm at the bar and again during reverse happy hour 9 to 10 pm, for those of you who enjoy a nightcap.

Bollo Woodfired Pizza, 2202 W. Alabama at Greenbriar, 713-677-0391, bollohouston.com